Usually a name is just a name, but Panino’s made me wonder which came first: the restaurant’s moniker or the sandwich it’s known for?

A panino is the singular of panini, a grilled, usually stuffed Italian sandwich. At Panino’s, a myriad of possible fillings is rolled into a thin layer of crust like a wide burrito and then baked. It’s available in so many permutations that it’s possible to have a different one every day for more than a month without duplicating combinations. That doesn’t even take the build-your-own options into consideration. As if that’s not enough, the menu features traditional Italian fare as well as some creative spins. In our group we ordered three different panini to reflect the range of possibilities.

The locally owned downtown Panino’s opened in 1974 near Colorado College (there’s also a location on 8th Street, as well as locations in Fort Collins and Minnesota). It’s long been popular among locals and the school’s sports teams, particularly the hockey players. Numerous photos featuring the CC Tigers and other hockey teams adorn the walls. Given the size of the portions and the comfort-food flavors, it’s easy to see why this place packs in the crowds – composed of not just of athletes, but families, couples and others.

My favorite panino was the Pesto Chicken ($9.29), thanks to the combination of fresh basil, tomato, spinach and mozzarella cheese with chicken breast. The 2×4 ($8.99) featured two cheeses (mozzarella and cheddar) with ham, pepperoni, sausage and ground beef. Thus the name: two cheeses and four meats. The spicy pepperoni stole the show as the dominant flavor.

Perhaps the most creative, and most similar to a burrito, was the veggie with refried beans ($8.99). What would have been an ordinary blend of vegetables (mushrooms, black olives, onions, green peppers and tomatoes) was elevated thanks to the beans. It wasn’t what I expect in a predominantly Italian eatery, but it worked.

The Santa Fe Ravioli ($12.49) was also a surprise. Without reading the description on the menu, I would have guessed this to be pasta stuffed with spicy meat or cheese with green chili. I’d have been wrong.

The variation isn’t in the pasta, but in the sauce and presentation. Basic meat and cheese ravioli (choose one or both) are smothered in green chili under a bed of shredded lettuce, tomato and cheese. To further enhance the Southwest element, it’s served with chips and a slow-to-ignite-the-palate salsa. This fusion of two cuisines didn’t quite work for me.

Fortunately, the traditional eggplant parmigiana ($13.99) was a success. Tender slices of lightly breaded eggplant under a hearty marinara served with a side of pasta is exactly what comes to mind when I think of traditional Italian food. The serving was more than enough for one. In fact, most of us left with to-go boxes filled with leftovers.

As if we didn’t have enough food, we decided to try another type of sandwich: the Sausage and Peppers Sub ($8.99). Italian sausage and a colorful blend of red and green sautéed peppers with onions, provolone and marinara are packed between two slices of a hoagie bun. We liked the spicy combination of flavors and were surprised that the roll maintained its shape without disintegrating into a soggy mess.

We started our meal with appetizers of cheese sticks ($4.99) and mini meatballs ($4.99). The house-made meatballs were anything but diminutive, so we cut them in quarters for smaller bites. A worthy addition to any pasta dish, they were meaty without being dense. The cheese sticks are flat versions of traditional breadsticks topped with melted cheese. They come with a choice of marinara or ranch dressing. We opted for the former, although it was superfluous. The sticks whetted our appetites for what was to come, which is what good appetizers should do.

The only misstep was inconsistent service. Granted, it was a busy night, but what started as fully attentive devolved into neglect by the end of the meal. Fortunately, the food left a lasting positive impression.

Later, I learned the answer to my question. According to the restaurant’s website, Panino’s began as Pizza Plus; in 1991 the name was changed, “driven by the immense popularity of the panino sandwich.”