Although grapes have been grown in Washington’s Walla Walla Valley since 1850, the first modern winery wasn’t established until 1977, when Gary and Nancy Figgins bonded Leonetti Cellar. Since then, Leonetti’s wines have won international praise, gaining cult status and bringing worldwide attention to the valley.

Son Chris now directs viticulture and winemaking, focusing only on Walla Walla fruit. The wines, typically powerful, concentrated and graceful, begin with probably the best American Sangiovese (2006, $60) and one of the best merlots (2007, $70). The flagship wines are the cabernet sauvignon (2006, $85) and Reserve (2006, $135).

When Casey and Vicky McClellan opened Seven Hills Winery in 1988, it was only the fifth winery in the area. They also showcase fine Walla Walla fruit, as in the 2006 Merlot Seven Hills Vineyard ($28), 2005 Pentad ($50) and 2006 Malbec ($28).

But, like many area wineries, Seven Hills still sources fruit from vineyards throughout the state of Washington. These are highlighted in the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley ($25), and most dramatically in the 2006 Vintage Red ($90) from the prized Ciel du Cheval Vineyard in Red Mountain. There’s even a fine 2007 Oregon Pinot Gris ($16).

Today there are more than 100 wineries in Walla Walla, but Leonettti and Seven Hills still represent the essence of the valley.

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Rich Mauro has been writing about wine since 1995. He is a policy analyst for the Denver Regional Council of Governments. Reach him at rich@rmpeoplespalate.com or Box 1779, Colorado Springs 80901.

Dawn Brazuk, of New Tripoli, Pa., pledges for a year to only eat food produced within 125 miles of her house. She has been growing and buying locally-grown foods, preparing and preserving them. Photo by McClatchy Newspapers