The possessive apostrophe in Taco’s Revolution gave me pause before realizing the rebellion was against average renditions of the popular Mexican street food.

The Menu

It was the range of fillings for tacos and burritos that was the most tempting. These included carne asada to lengua, from chorizo to quesabirria, and more. Quesadillas, platters, tamales, half a dozen seafood options and breakfast burritos are among other choices. Everything is available during business hours.

Critic’s Tip

At the time of our visit, there was little signage so Taco’s Revolution was difficult to find. It’s located in the northernmost part of a strip mall anchored by Safeway. It’s tucked behind the arched architectural feature. It’s worth the search.

On the Table

It seemed only right to order something with the eatery’s name. There was the Revolution Taco ($4.20) and the Revolution Burrito ($12.75); I chose the latter since I suspected it would be massive. It was! Both items, though, contained the same fillings; the burrito just had more, a lot more.

Pinto beans, rice, diced grilled steak and cactus strips were blanketed inside a large flour tortilla. Guacamole was also part of the equation, but there was little evidence of it, which was disappointing. A thin avocado sauce was available from the salsa bar, which was easier to add to tacos, but I still poured a little on the burrito’s fillings. 

What was most impressive was that the amount of the steak surpassed the rice and beans, which could have easily been a lot less. The cactus pieces were a surprise. They added a pleasing bit of tartness to the otherwise savory contents.

Five plate options featured chicken asada, carnitas, carne asada, birria and pastor (each $16.50). All include rice, refried beans and a corn or flour tortilla. We selected carnitas, which means little meats. The braised, shredded pork was tender, even with some crispy edges. It was the best combination of textures with brittle and melt-in-your-mouth bites. 

The refried beans were earthy and creamy. I was sorry they weren’t in my burrito, although they are included in others. The pinto beans in the Revolution were fine, but not exceptional like the refried version.

A pastor taco ($3.80) was also sampled. Abundant pieces of marinated pork served with small cubes of pineapple, diced onions and cilantro spilled from the two corn tortillas meant to hold everything in place. Fortunately, forks were available to nab whatever escaped. 

The Venue

Orders are placed at the counter, but food is brought out on real plates with non-plastic flatware to the tables. The dining area is bright, festive and clean. A single TV was at one end; I suspect its angled placement made it easier for staff to watch when things got slow. That didn’t happen during our visit. 

Afterthoughts

Aside from our difficulty finding the place, I have only praise for the quality of the food, all prepared to order, and the friendly staff. It apparently didn’t take long for people to find Taco’s Revolution. It opened nearly four months ago and already appeared to have an impressive number of regulars. 

Know Before You Go

Taco’s Revolution

Fast casual Mexican fare

Location: 70 95 Austin Bluffs Parkway

Contact: 719-368-6917; tacosrevolutionco.com 

Prices: $3.80 to $21.99

Hours: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily 

Details: Credit cards accepted. Wi-Fi. Patio. Online ordering available.

Favorite dishes: Carnitas platter and pastor taco.

Other: No gluten-free bread, but vegan options available

El Paso County Health Department inspection: No report found.