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Dining review: Bubba’s 33 has well-executed twists on standard fare

Bubba’s 33 makes no effort to establish itself as an oasis among the hustle and bustle of the Powers Boulevard corridor; in fact, it seems to thrive as a participant.

It’s easy to see why: more large-screen televisions (65) than tables (57); piped-in music; plenty of beer on tap and a menu that’s reasonably priced with some surprisingly well-executed twists on standard fare.

It’s difficult not to be overwhelmed by the TVs; they’re in every line of vision. Be prepared for sensory overload. Thankfully, the food was able to command our attention.

Our server recommended crispy fried pickles ($4.99) and the Shotgun Shrimp ($7.99) as starters. She described the former as being thinly sliced and hand-breaded dill chips. We opted for the shrimp, also hand-breaded, then tossed with a marginally spicy cream sauce. This is a big seller judging from the numerous orders coming out of the kitchen. The shrimp, served atop a mound of crispy potato straws, are succulent, but I would have liked more zing in the sauce.

The Shotgun Po’Boy ($9.99) uses the same recipe but is served with lettuce, tomato and green onions on a toasted hoagie bun. Despite my desire for more pep from the sauce, I liked the shrimp enough that I would order the po’ boy on my next visit.

Bubba’s 33 emphasizes that odd number in various ways including, among other things, beer served at 33 degrees and its 33 percent bacon grind patty. Ground bacon is incorporated in the beef for an instant bacon burger; that doesn’t count the strips of smoked bacon that may be included. We went with the Bacon Guacamole Burger ($9.99), served with seasoned fries. The latter just means sprinkled with salt since no other seasonings were discernible.

The burger is massive and even cutting it in half required two hands for eating. The bacon flavor is easily identified and the chunky guacamole was a nice addition. Although it was certainly tasty, this burger was not as juicy as I anticipated.

Hand-tossed, stone-baked pizza also appears to be popular. My first choice, the roasted garlic pizza ($12.99), was unavailable. It combines roasted tomatoes, ricotta and a roasted garlic cream sauce. Our server revealed the bad news within minutes of taking my order, so I hadn’t had enough to get my mind, and taste buds, fully committed.

Before even taking our order, our server had explained that the dough is hand-rolled and stone-baked so it is “like having our own little pizzeria back in the kitchen.”

I went with my second choice: Fresh Veggie ($11.99), topped with roasted tomatoes, red onion, green and red peppers and mushrooms. I asked to skip the black olives that are usually part of the package and added Italian sausage.

The pizza arrived with a golden crust and enough cheese to create strings while pulling the slices away from the whole pie. I could see a thin layer of tomato sauce, but the abundance of veggies eclipsed its presence. It wasn’t the best pizza I’ve ever had, but it does beat the delivery variety.We took most of it home and it passed the cold-pizza test the next day.

Bubba’s 33 is part of the Texas Roadhouse restaurant group and can’t quite shake the corporate shadow that haunts many chains. Although this is the only Bubba’s I’ve visited, I am confident I could walk into any one of its other locations in five states and get the same vibe – along with similar decor.

There’s nothing wrong with that, except it’s so contrived. Yet I have to say the smiles we were greeted with were genuine and our server’s knowledge of the menu could top many fine-dining establishments.

The menu identifies many items as “homemade,” and our server verified that they are dishes made in house. Interestingly, as we walked past the kitchen, we saw photos of the food above each station; still, Bubba’s deserves kudos for making the ordinary taste less so.

Bubba's 33 Restaurant
Bubba’s 33 Restaurant “33 Deluxe Pizza with Shotgun Shrimp and Sunshine Burger” – Hand-breaded shrimp lightly fried and tossed in a spicy-cream sauce, then topped with green onions and served on a bed of potato straws – Signature 33% bacon grind patty with American cheese, fried egg, Bubba’s smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato and onion served with fries – Pepperoni, Italian Sausage, red and green bell peppers, red onion, mushrooms and red pepper. Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba's 33 Restaurant Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba’s 33 Restaurant Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba's 33 Restaurant Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba’s 33 Restaurant Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba's 33 Restaurant
Bubba’s 33 Restaurant “Shotgun Shrimp” – Hand-breaded shrimp lightly fried and tossed in a spicy-cream sauce, then topped with green onions and served on a bed of potato straws. Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba's 33 Restaurant
Bubba’s 33 Restaurant “Shotgun Shrimp” – Hand-breaded shrimp lightly fried and tossed in a spicy-cream sauce, then topped with green onions and served on a bed of potato straws. Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba's 33 Restaurant
Bubba’s 33 Restaurant “Sunshine Burger” Signature 33% bacon grind patty with American cheese, fried egg, Bubba’s smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato and onion served with fries. Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba's 33 Restaurant
Bubba’s 33 Restaurant “Sunshine Burger” Signature 33% bacon grind patty with American cheese, fried egg, Bubba’s smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato and onion served with fries. Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba's 33 Restaurant
Bubba’s 33 Restaurant “Sunshine Burger” Signature 33% bacon grind patty with American cheese, fried egg, Bubba’s smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato and onion served with fries. Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba's 33 Restaurant
Bubba’s 33 Restaurant “33 Deluxe Pizza” – Pepperoni, Italian Sausage, red and green bell peppers, red onion, mushrooms and red pepper. Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba's 33 Restaurant
Bubba’s 33 Restaurant “33 Deluxe Pizza” – Pepperoni, Italian Sausage, red and green bell peppers, red onion, mushrooms and red pepper. Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba's 33 Restaurant
Bubba’s 33 Restaurant “33 Deluxe Pizza” – Pepperoni, Italian Sausage, red and green bell peppers, red onion, mushrooms and red pepper. Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba's 33 Restaurant Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
Bubba’s 33 Restaurant Wednesday December 9, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)


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