ROBIN INTEMANN

It never fails that when I visit a Thai restaurant for the first time I’m never sure whether to trust its spice levels, since they’re markedly different from place to place. What I learned at NaRai Siam Cuisine is that mild and medium are just what they imply.

Spiciness here only enhanced the dishes and never overwhelmed flavors, which has happened at other Thai restaurants when I’ve misjudged. I detected a slight smile when the lower tiers of the spices (mild, medium, hot and Thai hot) were requested for our soup and entrees.

We began the meal with crispy tofu ($10). We also ordered Tom Kha Gal soup ($14 bowl; $7 cup) and wondered which would appear  first. It was the appetizer. The soup and entrees were well-paced, so we were never left waiting wondering when the next plates would be delivered.

A dozen, large cubed golden pieces of firm tofu had a crispy exterior that after the first bite revealed a creamy interior. A clear sweet and sour sauce was loaded with finely chopped peanuts and cilantro. This tangy accoutrement served on the side provided the flavor needed to fully appreciate this opening act.

Tom Kha Gal soup was crowded with large slices of chicken, mushrooms and onions. The coconut milk base had a citrus component thanks to the addition of lemon grass and galangal. The flavors and heat helped diminish the chill of the fall evening. A bowl is easily shared by two, perhaps three.

The menu is divided into several categories, including Thai curries, Thai fried rice, noodles, Thai stir-fried and Chef’s Specials, along with appetizers and soup/salad

The Thai basil chicken($19), from among the stir-fried options, was recommended. Many of the entrees at NaRAi offer a choice of protein besides poultry. These include beef and tofu. We opted for beef and what arrived was an impressive amount of thinly sliced, grilled, marinated meat among a mix of vividly green sugar snap peas, red peppers, onions and Thai basil. The latter imparted a mild piquancy and bitterness to the dish. This was accompanied by a small cup of steamed white rice for mixing with the meat and veggies.

It’s hard to go wrong with a Thai curry. I’m a fan of traditional Massaman curry, so I was eager to sample NaRai’s. This is best described as a soup-like stew that boasted a variety of spices in its coconut milk-based broth. Thin slices of chicken breast, chunks of potatoes and sliced white onion provide the heartiness. The cup of steamed white rice, when added to the curry, helped thicken the broth. However, it was the combination of spices, like cinnamon and cardamom, that made this so enjoyable. Plus, it was a large serving, which meant leftovers the next day.

NaRai did not disappoint when it came to flavors, service and ambiance. This is a comfortable and classy restaurant. I now know to be more adventurous when it comes to how much kick I want in a dish. Although, I’m not sure I’m ready to venture to Thai hot.

 NaRai Siam Cuisine

Thai cuisine for dining in and carryout

Location: 120 E. Cheyenne Mountain Blvd.

Contact: 719-434-1975; narai-thai.com 

Prices: $6 to $32

Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 8:30 p.m. Monday – Thursday; 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 9 p.m. Friday; 4 to 9 p.m. Saturday; closed Sunday. 

Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol.

Favorite dishes: Tom Kha Gai and Massaman curry.

Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.