By Robin Intemann
features@gazettedev.gazette.com

Oro means gold in several languages, but not everything shimmered at this downtown restaurant of the same name; nonetheless, there were bright spots.

THE MENU

Upscale Italian cuisine meets its rustic counterpart. Expect traditional dishes along with creative twists on others.

Starters range from Caesar salad to bison carpaccio, from Castelveltrano olives to scallop crostini. Entrees include fresh pastas, seafood, steak, lamb, chicken and a vegetarian option.

CRITIC’S TIP

Ask about something unfamiliar on the menu. Take gribici: French creamy dressing made with pieces of hard-boiled egg, mustard and vinegar. Here it’s served on asparagus and arugula.

ON THE TABLE

Our server was ready with recommendations. He suggested focaccia with basil butter, which he said paired nicely with burrata. He named rigatoni Bolognese, whole roasted branzino and Bistecca Colorado as among the more popular dishes.

We opted for arancini alla Romana ($12). We selected rigatoni ($29) and veal scallopini ($33) as our entrees.

Arancini, orbs of saffron-infused risotto coated with bread crumbs, were fried to a golden brown. Each of the three in our order was topped with a dollop of basil cream and a sliver of jalapeno. They rested in a thick, rich marinara sauce. The only complaint was a lack of serving utensils with which to not only get the rice balls to our small plates but also scoop up the sauce. Our forks and knives had to suffice.

Rigatoni Bolognese was the mother lode of the meal. Al dente, ridged pasta tubes were coated with thick tomato-based sauce, dense with bits of bison, pork, beef and pancetta heavily dusted with shaved parmesan. This was earthy, complex and something I would order again and again.

Veal scallopini was less successful. Lemon and herb flavors in the breaded coating of the thin cut of beef were tasty, but the meat was surprisingly sinewy, not something associated with veal.

THE VENUE

Décor is sophisticated but not intimidating. The layout suggested a classic diner, only the better adjective here is classy. High pressed-tin ceilings are impressive, but the height means noise levels are elevated. The interior features marble tabletops, curved, comfortable banquettes and a section of traditional two top tables that can be moved together for larger parties.

AFTERTHOUGHTS

My expectations are always high, no matter where I dine. Still, it’s difficult to ignore menu prices. When they’re higher, I can’t help but anticipate that quality, portions and service also will be elevated.

As knowledgeable and friendly as our server was, there were missteps. Our used, no-longer-needed appetizer plates were left on the table until long after our entrees arrived; it was clear another bottle of water was needed, but that, too, took time to replace. And, there shouldn’t have been a wait for a knife for the veal.

To its credit, Oro sources many ingredients from local purveyors, including bison, pork and beef. Focaccia is from Provision Bread & Bakery.

Oro, part of The Mining Exchange Hotel, shouldn’t be thought of as just for out-of-towners. The wonderful rigatoni made it easier to overlook a lot of lapses, but not completely.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Oro

Italian fine dining cuisine

Location: 123 E. Pikes Peak Ave.

Contact: 719-520-0123; orocoloradosprings.com

Prices: $8 (Castelastrano olive) to $79 (Bistecca Colorado)

Hours: 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 4 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Reservations on Open Table.

Favorite dishes: Rigatoni Bolognese and arancini ala Romana

Other: Limited gluten-free and vegan options available

El Paso County Health Department Inspection: In compliance (August 2025)