“Opa!” exclaims another table of patrons, led by their server: shot glasses held high; a unified cry of Ouzo fueled exuberance. The national drink and its associated cheer catalyze, lubricate and cap most all Greek celebrations.

Another wave of dining restrictions lifted, diners and staff alike are clearly eager, verging on antsy, to be “out and about”: sharing that inexplicable enthusiasm for camaraderie-by-dining. It’s a pent up energy straining against the chain forged link by restrictive link over the past year. Yet now, even if for only a moment, reprieve is being found at each beloved dining establishment brave enough to open dining rooms, welcome patrons and fill both empty stomachs and hungry souls.

“Opa!” Another table celebrates with the anise aperitif glasses held high. A smattering of applause follows.

There are few places in the greater Springs area where Greek food is not only served, but served well. Jake & Telly’s has been a Colorado Springs stalwart for nearly 25 years, acting as the preeminent destination for anyone wishing for an evening’s escape to a Greek island with all that Ouzo and all those once happily bleating sheep. But first, the seafood.

Sautéed kalimári is the Greek rendition of the otherwise ubiquitous seafood appetizer, forgoes the cheap beer batter and marinara of sports bars and Mexican cabanas for a tomato base reminiscent of an Italian cioppino with sherry undertones and a studding of capers’ briny punches all coddling a generous and playful mix of both large and small squid specimens. Meanwhile, a lentil soup, while not Greek per se, boasts a rich garlic broth that proves comforting with lentils delightfully tender.

“OPA!!” The particularly boisterous cheers echo across a large table of middle aged couples obviously celebrating a special occasion.

“Regrettably, we are all out of moussaka,” laments the server. Surprising as it’s merely 6:30 p.m. on a Friday. But providence leads to the ordering of pastitsio, a baked pasta dish layered with rich ground lamb and a super thick béchamel sauce, much like a Grecian lasagna. Admittedly, pastitsio is not exclusively Greek — one can find iterations of it in Egypt, Malta and elsewhere — but when the nearest, viable Mediterranean restaurant is Caspian Cafe up off Garden of the Gods, anything with lamb exudes the exotic.

Now ground lamb is one thing, but shank of lamb certainly elevates the experience. Jake & Telly’s shank was certainly cooked enough to be falling off the bone even if it was somewhat overdone, causing an unwelcome toothsomeness that benefited little from an orzo that was noticeably under-seasoned.

A brief discussion with management reveals a preparation methodology that could benefit from a brine, thereby achieving proper seasoning and, more importantly, preventing a lean cut from overcooking. But the orzo was easily saved with salt from the table and a squeeze of lemon residual from the brilliant kalimári.

Minor foibles aside, the atmosphere maintained it’s celebratory momentum. “Opa!” And then it was our turn. After a torta kataifi — a rich yet less sweet cheesecake with a ribboned phyllo garnishing — the question came: “Would you like ouzo?”

Surrounded by celebration, a general sense that we’re partaking in a collective sigh of relief, how could the answer be anything else? We raised our glasses. “Opa!”

For additional food-centric reviews and tips, or to make a comment, email On The Table at OnTheTableReviews@gmail.com, or visit facebook.com/onthetablereviews.

“Opa!” exclaims another table of patrons, led by their server: shot glasses held high; a unified cry of Ouzo fueled exuberance. The national drink and its associated cheer catalyze, lubricate and cap most all Greek celebrations.

Another wave of dining restrictions lifted, diners and staff alike are clearly eager, verging on antsy, to be “out and about”: sharing that inexplicable enthusiasm for camaraderie-by-dining. It’s a pent up energy straining against the chain forged link by restrictive link over the past year. Yet now, even if for only a moment, reprieve is being found at each beloved dining establishment brave enough to open dining rooms, welcome patrons and fill both empty stomachs and hungry souls.

“Opa!” Another table celebrates with the anise aperitif glasses held high. A smattering of applause follows.

There are few places in the greater Springs area where Greek food is not only served, but served well. Jake & Telly’s has been a Colorado Springs stalwart for nearly 25 years, acting as the preeminent destination for anyone wishing for an evening’s escape to a Greek island with all that Ouzo and all those once happily bleating sheep. But first, the seafood.

Sautéed kalimári is the Greek rendition of the otherwise ubiquitous seafood appetizer, forgoes the cheap beer batter and marinara of sports bars and Mexican cabanas for a tomato base reminiscent of an Italian cioppino with sherry undertones and a studding of capers’ briny punches all coddling a generous and playful mix of both large and small squid specimens. Meanwhile, a lentil soup, while not Greek per se, boasts a rich garlic broth that proves comforting with lentils delightfully tender.

“OPA!!” The particularly boisterous cheers echo across a large table of middle aged couples obviously celebrating a special occasion.

“Regrettably, we are all out of moussaka,” laments the server. Surprising as it’s merely 6:30 p.m. on a Friday. But providence leads to the ordering of pastitsio, a baked pasta dish layered with rich ground lamb and a super thick béchamel sauce, much like a Grecian lasagna. Admittedly, pastitsio is not exclusively Greek — one can find iterations of it in Egypt, Malta and elsewhere — but when the nearest, viable Mediterranean restaurant is Caspian Cafe up off Garden of the Gods, anything with lamb exudes the exotic.

Now ground lamb is one thing, but shank of lamb certainly elevates the experience. Jake & Telly’s shank was certainly cooked enough to be falling off the bone even if it was somewhat overdone, causing an unwelcome toothsomeness that benefited little from an orzo that was noticeably under-seasoned.

A brief discussion with management reveals a preparation methodology that could benefit from a brine, thereby achieving proper seasoning and, more importantly, preventing a lean cut from overcooking. But the orzo was easily saved with salt from the table and a squeeze of lemon residual from the brilliant kalimári.

Minor foibles aside, the atmosphere maintained it’s celebratory momentum. “Opa!” And then it was our turn. After a torta kataifi — a rich yet less sweet cheesecake with a ribboned phyllo garnishing — the question came: “Would you like ouzo?”

Surrounded by celebration, a general sense that we’re partaking in a collective sigh of relief, how could the answer be anything else? We raised our glasses. “Opa!”

For additional food-centric reviews and tips, or to make a comment, email On The Table at OnTheTableReviews@gmail.com, or visit facebook.com/onthetablereviews.