Finger pushing
loader-image
weather icon 63°F


Wine Guy: Hearty wines pair well with winter meals

This time of year, I always find myself craving heartier foods – and heartier wines to accompany them.

If you’re looking for full-flavored wines, especially ones that offer great value, consider Petite Sirah and Syrah.

Until the past decade or so, petite sirah was a largely unknown grape used mostly for blending. But, as is often said now, there’s nothing petite about Petite Sirah wines, which display a flavor profile of dark berries, leather, earth, tobacco, mineral and pepper, with an ability to age well.

The grape is prevalent in California, and a good introduction to the style is the 2013 Chronic Cellars “Suite Petite” ($15) with its big, brash fruit. Josh and Jake Beckett, whose parents own Peachy Canyon in Paso Robles, created this company focused on casual wines in 2008. And this wine delivers.

More serious is the 2013 Parducci “True Grit” Reserve ($30). In Mendocino County since 1932, Parducci was an early adopter of petite sirah, and True Grit is its signature wine. This vintage wine is meaty and woodsy with plenty of rustic tannins, suggesting it’s best to let it evolve for a few years before enjoying.

Another pioneer of modern winemaking in Mendocino, Edmeades is best known for its Zinfandels. But their admirable 2012 Mendocino County Petite Sirah ($35) shows smoky, concentrated aromas and bright, spicy fruit, while a lush texture balances the initially tough tannins.

Since its establishment in 2005, Fulcrum Wines has distinguished itself as a Pinot Noir specialist. As the name Fulcrum indicates, the stated goal for the wines is balance, a quality that is a challenge to achieve with Petite Sirah. But Fulcrum pulled it off with the 2012 “Landy Vineyard” ($45). Its ripe fruit is balanced with firm acidity, while its lush texture reveals ample tannins. It should gain complexity with time.

Syrah widely is recognized as one of the world’s better red wine grapes. At its best, its wines provide quality concentration, complexity and elegance, with characteristic pepper, meat and leather accents plus an ability to develop for many years. Even a lower-priced syrah will deliver forward fruit and a smooth texture that is ideal for everyday drinking.

The 2013 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Santa Barbara County ($17) is a good example of a value-driven syrah. It features notes of resin, smoke and earth balanced with solid fruit, while its solid structure is presented seamlessly.

Bob Lindquist founded Qupé Winery in 1982 with a name to honor the Chumash, the indigenous people of California’s Central Coast and Channel Islands. His 2012 Qupé Santa Barbara County Syrah ($30) is deep and spicy but also savory and elegant with a solid structure.

Finally, here’s a fantastic syrah-dominated blend from Washington: the 2012 Buty Walla Walla Valley “Rediviva of the Stones” Rockgarden Estate ($60). Buty Winery is the 15-year-old project of Nina Buty that quickly has taken a place among the state’s best. A blend of 78 percent syrah, 13 percent cabernet sauvignon and 9 percent mourvedre, this wine entices with intense aromatics and flavors that deftly blend fruit and savory elements into a wine of lively elegance.

So, whether it is sirah or syrah, these substantial reds are ideal candidates for your winter meals.



Welcome Back.

Streak: 9 days i

Stories you've missed since your last login:

Stories you've saved for later:

Recommended stories based on your interests:

Edit my interests