It’s not just the fresh, aromatic dishes served at Fratelli Ristorante Italiano that help distinguish it from other Italian eateries; it’s also what’s missing: There are no red-checkered table- clothes or pasta drowning in heavy sauces.

Since everything is made to order, it’s hard not to let gazes wander while waiting for dishes to arrive.

Mine happened to alight on La Caprese ($11), which the couple next to us ordered. The plate of Buffalo mozzarella with tomatoes and fresh basil drizzled with olive oil was a sight to behold.

We started with the Crostini Rustica ($8), which could be considered a variation of the caprese: the same ingredients served on baked slices of baguettes. Creamy cheese is augmented by olive oil, licorice-like basil and slices of Roma tomatoes. A few olives and roasted red peppers provide additional textures and vibrant colors.

Of course, before the appetizer arrived, a basket of freshly baked bread was served with pesto and olive oil for dipping. It would be easy to fill up on this.

Rather, go for the thick, vegetable-laden minestrone ($4 a cup) or one of the salads. My choice was the Fratelli salad ($6), with mixed greens dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette and garnished with olives.

The nightly special created by chef Armando was veal parmigiana with butternut squash ravioli. It bothers me when the price of specials is not mentioned at the same time they’re described. No one wants to have an enjoyable meal only to experience sticker shock at its conclusion. I had to ask: $24. It was tempting, but instead we ordered the Veal Marsala and Pollo Pesto Crema. The latter is identified as a “local favorite.”

It’s easy to see why. Thinly pounded chicken breast is coated with creamy pesto that blends the freshness of the herb with the decadence of rich cream. It’s topped with roasted pine nuts and served with what the menu describes as “authentic pasta,” but which I prefer to identify as house-made linguini.

The pasta type changes, so it makes sense that it’s not more specific. The serving is plentiful, but there was none of the feeling of heaviness and lethargy that follows heartier entrees.

This also applies to the veal Marsala. Thin slices of tender veal served with a deep brown, smoky sauce from the Marsala wine and thick with sliced mushrooms are served over the authentic pasta. This is the type of food that makes it tempting to want to forgo good manners and lick the plate. The sauce is a motherlode.

Save room for dessert. The tiramisu is the epitome of self-indulgence: No one really needs dessert, but it would be foolish to miss this airy, trifle-like coffee-soaked sponge cake.

There are nine tables in the main dining area, as well as a few more in the bar. Our server, who was also the hostess and cashier, managed the entire restaurant without missing a beat. A nicely dressed young man provided assistance in the form of offering freshly grated Parmesan cheese and fresh ground pepper for salads and entrees. Otherwise, our efficient, if not effusive, server attended to all details. She answered questions but didn’t linger at the table.

There is plenty of artwork adorning the walls, because as our server explained, the restaurant doubles as an art gallery. This aside, Fratelli’s size creates an intimate dining experience. It’s romantic. Not in the pasta-sharing mode of “Lady and the Tramp,” but more sophisticated in the way of Marcello Mastroianni and Sophia Loren.