Wine Guy: Make your holidays sparkle
Manuta
The holidays provide prime opportunities to open special bottles of wine. For many, that means sparkling wine.
Of course, Champagne gets most of the buzz, but effervescent wine is so popular that there are versions made in virtually every wine region.
For instance, there is a lot of other good French sparkling wine. Designated Crémant and also made using the “Methode Champenoise” (where the second fermentation occurs in the bottle), they have the attraction of being more affordable.
Crémant d’Alsace is one of the better options. It’s typically light and fruity but offers a nice measure of complexity. I found two brut rosés from two of the more important producers in Alsace, both 100 percent pinot noir. The Lucien Albrecht ($22) offers a crisp taste of strawberry with finesse. The Pierre Sparr ($19) has fresh aromas, flavors of soft red berries and delicate, lively acidity.
Crémant de Limoux comes from vineyards surrounding the town of Limoux in the Languedoc-Rousillon region, which lays claim to producing sparkling wine by a second fermentation in the bottle long before Champagne. Domaines Paul Mas Cote Mas Brut ($16), a blend of 60 percent chardonnay, 20 percent chenin blanc, 10 percent pinot noir and 10 percent mauzac, has pleasant pear, apple and lemon flavors.
Spanish cava also is produced by the traditional method. Long an affordable alternative to Champagne, it uses indigenous grapes (macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada) grown in the Penedes Valley not far from Barcelona.
Two of the more reliable producers are Codorníu and Paul Cheneau. Anna de Codorníu Brut ($15) celebrates the life of Codorníu’s last heiress, and the 70 percent chardonnay in this release reveals some richness with a solid structure and a lush texture. The Paul Cheneau Brut ($14) suggests a French influence with a creamy elegance and structure.
One of the better California sparkling wine producers, Gloria Ferrer, has a Spanish connection: It was founded by owners of Freixenet, the world’s largest producer of Methode Champenoise. Its impressive line of sparklers includes the Sonoma Brut ($22), a pinot noir-dominated cuvee that reflects a house style of fresh white fruits and mildly toasty elements delivered with a delicate, sleek texture. The all chardonnay Blanc de Blancs ($22) is crisp with citrus, apple and creamy vanilla, while the mostly pinot noir Blanc de Noirs ($22) tantalizes with luscious sensations of pretty red fruits. Finally, the 2007 Royal Cuvée Brut Late Disgorged ($37), composed of pinot noir and chardonnay, is the peak of Gloria Ferrer production. Apple, citrus, cherry and vanilla make delightful appearances with a rich, creamy texture and a crisp finish.
Prosecco, from the hills north of Venice, predominantly is made using the native glera grape and the Charmat Method. The bubbles are produced in large stainless steel tanks to preserve glera’s fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit.
One of its more prominent producers is Bisol, whose Desidero JEIO Brut ($17) shows delightful fresh apple, apricot and citrus. A real treat, the 2014 Crede Brut ($25) is an impressive, single-vineyard selection with a delicate mousse but intense fruit.
Other fine prosecco worth seeking out: Mionetto Brut Treviso ($15) is a bit floral, with intense, fresh fruit; Mionetto Gran Rose Extra Dry ($15) is a fun alternative with red currant and pomegranate; and Valdo Brut Oro Puro ($20) offers a fresh, lively style with evidence of greater complexity and fuller flavors.





