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Creative pub fare, friendly staff

I’ve had a tune stuck in my head since eating at The Public House. Remember “Cheers,” the ’80s sitcom set in a Boston bar? That’s the theme song my mind has had on replay because the local pub feels like the kind of place “where everybody knows your name.”

Of course, no one there had any idea as to my identity, but the staff’s welcoming greeting made me feel like a regular. I was also impressed with all the servers’ ability to carve out a minute here and there to converse beyond taking a food and beverage order. This goes a long way to making everyone feel welcome – and appreciated.

The Public House was recently packed with end-of-the-week revelers, families, couples and groups of friends. We knew no one around us, yet the environment was friendly, comfortable and lively. Baseball was on most of the TVs and music was slightly audible from the electronic jukebox. Even with all the hub-bub, someone on staff always managed to acknowledge everyone who walked through the door.

As if that isn’t enough, I should also mention that the food is very good – and creative, with an emphasis on made-in-house entrees boasting locally sourced ingredients.

Our server told us that 85 percent of the menu is made in-house. What they can’t do themselves they source with local vendors, such as the breads that come from the Old School Bakery at Ivywild School. The green chilies are from Pueblo.

The Queso Blanco ($9.25) came highly recommended. This is gooey melted white cheddar with a kick thanks to those same green chilies in the salsa verde, jalapeno and onions. The chips are made in the kitchen from corn tortillas. We ran out of chips before queso; however, the pub chips, which arrived with our entrees, worked just as well at scooping up the cheesy opulence. I could have eaten this all night and it’s something I will order again.

We selected the Mountain Burger ($12.25), the Pulled Pork on Brioche ($9) and the BLTM – bacon, lettuce, tomato and mozzarella – ($11.75). Prices are reasonable and quantities are substantial. All sandwiches are served with a choice of side salad, coleslaw or pub chips. These quartered, fingerling potatoes are fried but aren’t greasy. I liked the blend of crunchy exterior with the creamy inside. They weren’t quite as well-received by others at my table for no other reason than because some of my companions are die-hard french fry fans. I noticed that no pub chips remained on any of the plates.

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The BLTM is a glorified diner sandwich exalted in status not only because of the addition of the cheese but for the basil aioli. It was like a caprese salad on sourdough bread.

Truffle oil is not something I associate with bar grub. Since The Public House and its food are not at all ordinary, it wasn’t too surprising to see that it’s a key component of the Mountain Burger. Juicy and topped with whiskey-caramelized onions, sharp cheddar and the decadent oil, this is no commonplace patty. The result was a union of distinct flavors in practically every bite.

The pork is braised in-house, according to our server, and that’s evident by the tender texture. The smoky barbecue sauce is offset by the tangy coleslaw that tops the meat.

House-made pizza, street tacos and several other sandwiches round out the menu. I look forward to sampling more on subsequent visits, although I’ll always start with the queso.

In addition to geniality, the servers were attentive, keeping water and beverage glasses full. The only downside was a slightly long wait for the queso. The night was busy and once the appetizer was served, any unease was immediately cast aside.

Oh, as for the rest of the refrain from the “Cheers” theme song: “And they’re always glad you came.” I’m very glad I went.



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