Around since the late 1980s, the Ritz Grill should probably earn historic landmark status in the downtown dining scene. That’s not, by any means, to say it’s archaic or past its prime.

It’s a venue long known for creative libations, live music and as a popular lunch spot. Dinner, at least the night of our visit, seems to take a back seat. Nothing was wrong, but neither did anything make me say, “I can’t wait to return.” It’s possible that the restaurant’s longevity and familiarity have created a sense of complacency.

Happy Hour was winding down and several tables were tagged as reserved, but things were not that busy. Thus, we were surprised it took a while to be acknowledged. I noticed this with others who stood at the front door who came in afterward us. At least, the neglect was not personal.

Once seated, though, we had our server’s full attention.

In addition to drink deals for the 3:30 to 6:30 p.m. happy hours, the Ritz also offers several small plate specials. We wavered between the Shrimp and Grilled Avocado Dip ($5)and the Salmon Crostini ($4). We selected the former: a blend of shrimp salad served in half an avocado, which had been charred. It would have made an impressive plating had the bar code sticker been removed. Still, the combined creaminess of the shrimp and the avocado was smooth and refreshing. There was none of the smokiness I was expecting from the grilled avocado. It’s served with toasted ciabatta.

The menu is heavy on sandwiches and burgers. This makes sense for the lunch crowd, and all sound hearty enough to satisfy hunger pangs any time of the day. The Ultimate Grilled Cheese ($10.95)jumped out because it’s made not just with cheese but with caramelized onions and short ribs. I can become giddy over short ribs, especially when they’ve been braised so long they practically melt in your mouth. The meat on this sandwich didn’t reach that point. The flavor was good, but nothing spectacular, although the short ribs did overshadow the cheese. The latter had more of a supporting role than the star billing as suggested in the name. Even the onions didn’t generate much excitement. Overall, the meat made the sandwich oily leaving a pool on the plate and stains on the butcher paper covering the table.

The fries from the Steak and Frites ($17.95) did the same thing. I liked the garlicky flavor of the thin, hand-cut french fries, but my opinion was not shared by others at our table. The Flat Iron steak was cooked to a medium rare perfection but didn’t arrive at the table particularly hot. This would explain why the glob of Bearnaise butter on the meat never completely melted.

The menu represents a range of cuisines featuring Asian influences, four pizza options, a few Cajun items, a nod to the southwest, and a couple of Italian entrees. The Chicken Milanese ($13.50)caught my eye. This is a chicken breast that’s been pounded thin before being lightly breaded and seasoned with Italian herbs. It’s fried but was not at all oily and shared the plate with a large amount of arugula. Sage butter is served on the side and looks more like a dressing for the greens than a topping for the chicken. I like arugula but it needs something to balance its peppery flavor. Combining the three elements on the plate into every bite, I created a salad of sorts.

Five dessert options are available, but we were too full to even want to share one. The Bacon Pecan Brownie ($4.95), I must admit, was very, very tempting. As if bacon and chocolate wouldn’t be decadent enough, it’s served with bourbon ice cream.

Little has changed inside this popular bar and bistro since its doors first opened in 1987, yet the ambiance remains fresh and clean. A few years ago the menu was updated, so not everything has remained exactly as it was. The friendly staff helps make the dining experience enjoyable even if the food lags behind.