Big, family-sized pies tend to get all the summer dessert glory, but when it comes to picnics and backyard barbecues, I favor single-serving hand pies.

Sure, it’s a little more work to make a batch of hand pies than to make one large one, but the little guys are easier to transport and easier to eat. They also are versatile. Hand pies can be savory or sweet and can take a variety of shapes; I’m partial to those shaped like half-moons.

Peaches must be peeled before cooking, which can be tedious. Happily, serrated produce peelers (sold about everywhere kitchen gadgets are found) make it easy to peel not only stone fruits such as peaches, but tomatoes, too. If you own one of these handy gizmos, then just make sure your peach is ripe, but firm. A peach that’s too ripe – and too soft – will be difficult to peel no matter what you use.

If you don’t own one of these peelers, use a paring knife to score the bottom of each peach in a crisscross pattern, then blanch the peaches in boiling water until the skin starts to peel back (it’ll take about 30 seconds). After that, plunge them into ice water and the skin should slip off easily. This method also works well with tomatoes.

Once they are peeled, it’s time to season the peaches. Cut them into half-inch cubes, toss them with sugar and fresh lemon juice, then drain them. This step serves several purposes. The sugar not only sweetens the peaches, it also pulls out excess liquid, ensuring that the peaches won’t sog up the pastry during the baking process. The lemon juice points up the peach flavor even as it keeps the fruit from oxidizing and turning brown.

A word of caution: Given how many times this recipe calls for the chilling of the dough and the pies, you might be tempted to skip these steps. Don’t do it. Chilling is key to making sure the butter in the pastry stays cold, which is key to the production of a light and flaky crust.

PEACH HAND PIES

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Yield: 8 servings

3 small or 2 medium peaches (6 ounces total) 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar, plus more for sprinkling 1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice 12 ounces prepared or purchased pie dough (recipe at right), cut into 8 equal pieces and refrigerated 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons apricot jam 1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water Vanilla ice cream, to serve (optional)

Procedure:

Using a serrated produce peeler (or for soft peaches, use the poaching method described at left), peel the peaches. One at a time, set each peeled peach on the counter, stem side up, and aiming just to the right of center, cut off one side of the peach in one piece. Repeat the procedure on the left side, then cut straight down on the other sides of the peach. Cut the peach flesh into 1/2-inch chunks.

In a medium bowl toss the peach chunks with 1 1/2 tablespoons of sugar and the lemon juice. Let stand for 20 minutes, stirring every so often. Strain and save the peaches and the juices separately.

Working with 1 ball of dough at a time (leaving the rest in the refrigerator), roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface into a circle about 5 inches wide (1/8 inch thick). Spoon 1 teaspoon of the jam on one half of the round, then mound 2 tablespoons of the peach chunks over the jam.

Brush the edge of the pastry round with the beaten egg. Fold the other half of the dough round over the fillings to enclose them, pressing the edges together tightly. Fold over the edge to make a 1/4-inch rim, then crimp the edge with a fork. Use a knife to cut a small slit in the center of the top of the pastry, then transfer the hand pie to the refrigerator. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Once all of the hand pies are formed, refrigerate them for 30 minutes.

Heat the oven to 375 F. Line a baking sheet with kitchen parchment.

Arrange the pies on the prepared baking sheet. Brush the tops of the pies with additional egg, then sprinkle lightly with sugar. Bake on the oven’s middle shelf for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden. Let cool on a rack for 10 minutes before serving. Top each hand pie with a scoop of ice cream (if using) and a drizzle of the reserved peach juices.

Nutrition information per serving: 260 calories; 140 calories from fat (54 percent of total calories); 15 g fat (9 g saturated; 0.5 g trans fats); 65 mg cholesterol; 75 mg sodium; 28 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 8 g sugar; 4 g protein.