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Dining review: New locatio, same great food at PJ’s

Thirteen is often considered an unlucky number, but not for area diners. That’s how long PJ’s Bistro has been serving traditional Eastern European cuisine. And things just got a little more fortuitous: PJ’s recently moved to new digs just west of downtown.

Although the setting and address are different, and the menu is slightly smaller those familiar with PJ’s can expect the same attention to detail in the homemade food and attentive service. For anyone yet to sample the restaurant’s pierogies, borscht and other house specialties, stop procrastinating.

The new site, once home to La Petite Maison and other eateries, is larger than PJ’s former Manitou Springs space but maintains the sense of intimacy most often associated with bistros. The new establishment features two dining areas in addition to a large patio. Our server said there are plans to use the latter for live music beginning sometime this summer.

Our server was also exceptionally knowledgeable about the menu. Her familiarity with ingredients and her ability to describe dishes were spot on. Her description of the potato pancake ($14.95), for example, immediately hooked me. The pancake, she explained, is a blend of shredded potatoes – think hash browns, she said – with a little flour, cream, onion and covered with panko before frying. The result is a crispy exterior and creamy core. This is then topped with a choice of Hungarian goulash, red bird (chicken) thigh paprikash or beef stroganoff. She said the paprikash has a little kick, which is good, but the stroganoff is her favorite. That’s what I went with.

But not before sampling pierogi and a cup of borscht ($5.95). Matchstick-size pieces of beets along with a homemade ravioli stuffed with mushroom add texture to the broth. It’s beautifully red, almost regal in color with the slightest film of oil. The latter is easy to overlook because all of the elements produce a rich, yet basic combination of flavors. The mushroom filling of the hefty single ravioli is earthy and satisfying, but the beets, rightfully, are the star of the soup. A small roll (from Wimberger’s Old World Bakery) is a nice accompaniment.

Pierogies are available as starters ($6 -$7) or entrees ($9.95 – $11.95). The difference lies in the number served as a main course. We opted for the starter version with the traditional filling of potato, bacon, onion and cream cheese. Ravioli are often described as pillows; this image is equally apt for PJ’s pierogi. The dough is not so thick that it hides a mere suggestion of filling. Instead, it’s hardy enough to contain the stuffing where the real flavors are found. These, like almost everything here, are generously dusted with flakes of fresh parsley and served with a dollop of sour cream.

A meal could easily be made of the soup and pierogi, but don’t stop there. The potato pancake with stroganoff of tender, thinly sliced bison, with mushrooms and onions was a hearty meal. This is a substantial serving with the large pancake practically concealed by the generous stewlike topping. The entire dish provided a new spin on the idea of meat and potatoes.

Our other entrée was the chicken fried pork ($13.95). This is something, for some reason, I’d never considered. Sure, there’s chicken fried steak and chicken fried chicken, but pork never made it to my chicken fried radar. Lightly coated with panko, half of the pork was covered in brown gravy and all of it was especially tender. This dish is served with real mashed potatoes and tangy, house-made sauerkraut.

Three desserts are available ($6.95 each): cheesecake, chocolate cake and fruit-filled crepe. Unfortunately, we were too full to consider any of the options, which, I suspect, was a loss to our taste buds but not our waistlines.

The sign outside the restaurant specifies it is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. For now, there are no breakfast offerings, but that could change. The menu indicates that everything is available for takeout. The downside would be missing out on the knowledgeable staff. Still, it’s nice to have the option for dining in or out. What luck!

P.J.'s Bistro
P.J.’s Bistro “Dish Combo” – Borscht, Over a Potato Pancake and PJ’s Style Pierogi Wednesday June 10, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
P.J.'s Bistro Wednesday June 10, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
P.J.’s Bistro Wednesday June 10, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
P.J.'s Bistro
P.J.’s Bistro “Over a Potato Pancake” – Beef Stroganoff served over a Potato Pancake Wednesday June 10, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
P.J.'s Bistro
P.J.’s Bistro “PJ’s Style Pierogi (Pasta Turnover)” – Philly Cheese Steak with Horseradish Sauce Wednesday June 10, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)
P.J.'s Bistro
P.J.’s Bistro “Borscht” – Beet Broth with Hand-Made Mushroom Ravioli Wednesday June 10, 2015. Photo by Jeff Kearney (Jeff Keaerney)


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