Chinese takeout is always a treat, but it can be hard to sort out whether it’s a healthy one.Of course, with egg rolls, spareribs and fried rice, there’s not much guessing. But when it comes to the vegetable stir-fries and noodle dishes, the answer isn’t as obvious as we’d like.In principle, most Chinese stir-fries and noodle or rice dishes should be nutritionally sound. Lots of vegetables and carbohydrates and smaller amounts saturated fat from meat. But those ingredients usually are accompanied by plenty of oil and sodium in the wok.If you really want to enjoy the healthy balance of ingredients in Chinese dishes, you can take matters into your own hands. This lo mein made with chicken and shiitake mushrooms has all the flavor of the restaurant version, but just 4 teaspoons of oil and a lot less sodium.Start by substituting whole-wheat spaghetti for the traditional lo mein noodles. This adds fiber and a pleasant, nutty flavor.Next, for both the sauce and the chicken marinade, use dark soy sauce. This is richer, sweeter and more full-bodied than traditional soy sauce, and that means you can use less and cut the sodium.Finally, use a nonstick skillet or a well-seasoned wok to get away with using a small amount of oil. Peanut oil is an excellent choice for stir-frying because it can be heated to a relatively high temperature and adds a nice peanut flavor.

CHICKEN AND SHIITAKE MUSHROOM LO MEIN—Yield: 8 servings

1/2 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth4 teaspoons cornstarch, divided3 teaspoons dark soy sauce, divided1 teaspoon light brown sugar1 teaspoon oyster sauce16 ounces whole-wheat spaghetti1 egg white2 teaspoons cornstarch4 teaspoons peanut oil, divided1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices1 medium yellow onion, halved and cut into thin slices8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, sliced (about 2 cups)2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into matchsticks (about 1 cup)1 red bell pepper, cored and thinly sliced6 scallions, cut into 3-inch pieces then sliced lengthwise4 cloves garlic, minced2 teaspoons grated fresh gingerroot

Procedure:1. Whisk together broth, 2 teaspoons cornstarch, 2 teaspoons dark soy, brown sugar and oyster sauce in small bowl. Set aside.2. Bring large pot salted water to boil. Add spaghetti and cook according to package directions. Drain and set aside.3. Meanwhile, in medium bowl, whisk together egg white, remaining cornstarch, remaining dark soy sauce and 1 teaspoon oil. Add chicken and mix thoroughly.4. In large nonstick skillet or wok, heat 1 teaspoon oil over medium-high heat. Swirl to coat bottom of pan. Add onion and stir-fry, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add mushrooms, carrots, bell pepper and scallions. Stir-fry until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Transfer to serving platter and set aside.5. Return skillet to medium-high heat and add another teaspoon oil. Swirl to coat bottom of pan. Add chicken in an even layer and cook 3 minutes. Turn chicken and cook until no longer pink in the center, about 3 minutes more.6. Push chicken to sides of pan and add remaining teaspoon of oil. Add garlic and gingerroot and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir reserved sauce to recombine, then add to pan; cook until sauce begins to bubble and thicken, about 2 minutes.7. Add cooked spaghetti to pan, along with reserved vegetables. Toss to coat with sauce and continue cooking, until heated through, about 4 minutes. Transfer to serving platter.

Nutrition data per serving: 329 calories; 36 calories from fat; 4 g fat (1 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 33 mg cholesterol; 54 g carbohydrate; 23 g protein; 7 g fiber; 185 mg sodium.

A Chinese dinner made at home will give you the enjoyment of take-out with a healthier twist because you can control the amount of sodium and oil used. Try a small amount of peanut oil in a nonstick skillet when stir-frying this Chicken and Shiitake Mushroom Lo Mein. Photo by THE ASSOCIATED PRESS