When fat is cut from recipes, flavor can follow. That’s when spices become the key to making lighter foods taste great. And if you want to get the most out of your spices, it’s best to follow a few simple tips.Whenever possible, buy whole spices, says Raghavan Iyer, author of “660 Curries.” Spices get their flavor from the oils inside. Once the spices are ground, the oils lose potency, which means freshly ground peppercorns pack more flavor than pepper purchased already ground.Whole spices also are a better value. Stored in airtight, glass containers away from heat, says Iyer, whole spices will stay fresh for at least a year. Ground spices last for only a few months.Buy spices from the bulk section of a natural-food store so that you can buy only what you need for a short period. That helps ensure that your supply is always fresh. Prices for bulk also tend to be lower than for packaged.For grinding whole spices, a mortar and pestle are nice, but an inexpensive electric coffee grinder is faster and more convenient.Iyer’s recipe for curried chickpeas in coconut sauce gets a fiery burst of flavor from a freshly ground blend of pan-roasted chiles and coriander seeds.The curry, which can be served as a side or main course, is traditionally prepared in India as an offering to the goddess of learning during the Hindu celebration of lights called Diwali.

CHICKPEAS IN COCONUT SAUCE—Yield: 8 servings5 teaspoons sesame oil or canola oil2 tablespoons yellow split peas, picked over for stones1 teaspoon coriander seeds2-4 dried Thai or cayenne chiles, stems removed2 cups water1 teaspoon tamarind paste or concentrate1 teaspoon black or yellow mustard seeds3 cups canned or cooked chickpeas, drained2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt or sea salt1/4 teaspoon turmeric1/2 cup shredded dried unsweetened coconut, reconstituted2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro

Procedure:1. Add oil to medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add split peas, coriander seeds and chiles. Cook, stirring constantly, until split peas and coriander seeds are reddish brown and chiles have blackened slightly, about 1-2 minutes. Remove from the heat. With slotted spoon, skim off spices and transfer them to plate to cool for about 5 minutes. Do not discard oil. Once spices are cool, grind until texture resembles that of finely ground black pepper.2. In medium bowl, combine water and tamarind paste. Whisk to dissolve tamarind.3. Return saucepan to medium-high heat. When oil is warmed, add mustard seeds. Cover pan and cook until seeds have stopped popping, about 30 seconds. Stir in chickpeas, salt and turmeric. Stir to coat chickpeas evenly with spices. Pour in tamarind water and bring to boil. Lower heat to medium and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until chickpeas absorb the flavors, 8-10 minutes. Stir in ground spices, coconut and cilantro.

Source: Adapted from “660 Curries,” by Raghavan Iyer

Nutrition data per serving: 170 calories; 63 calories from fat; 7 g fat (3 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 20 g carbohydrate; 6 g protein; 5 g fiber; 907 mg sodium.

Freshly ground blends of pan-roasted chiles and coriander seeds provide a burst of flavor in this Chickpeas in Coconut Sauce an curry that can be served during Diwali, the Hindu celebration of lights. Photo by THE ASSOCIATED PRESS