After more than 20 years of research, experimentation and hard work, California pinot noir producers are hitting their stride.I’ve organized my recommendations by the state’s main pinot noir regions, moving from north to south. My favorites are listed in bold type under each area heading, but all the listed wines are highly recommended.

Anderson Valley (Mendocino County)• 2006 Goldeneye ($55)• 2007 Migration ($34)

Russian River Valley (Sonoma County)• 2007 Pali Bluffs ($19)• 2007 Sequana Dutton ($40)• 2007 Sequana Sundawg Ridge ($50)• 2006 Patz & Hall Chenoweth ($55)

Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County)• 2007 La Crema ($25)• 2006 Freeman ($44)• 2006 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain ($40)• 2007 Patz & Hall ($42)

Carneros• 2007 Chateau St. Jean Sonoma County ($20) • 2007 Sebastiani ($28)• 2007 Clos du Val ($30)• 2007 Etude ($42)

Santa Lucia Highlands• 2007 Paraiso ($25) • 2007 Sequana Sarmento ($32) • 2007 Pessagno Lucia Highland ($28)

Santa Maria Valley• 2006 Byron Nielson ($28) • 2006 Byron Sierra Madre ($40)• 2007 Cambria Julia’s ($21)• 2006 Byron Monument ($60)

Santa Ynez Valley• 2007 Fess Parker Ashley’s ($50) • 2007 Fess Parker Clone 115 ($50)—Rich Mauro has been writing about winesince 1995. He is a policy analyst for the Denver Regional Council of Governments. Reach him at rich@rmpeoplespalate.com or Box 1779, Colorado Springs 80901.

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