The American bison is back, and not just on the Great Plains.Thanks to two Teds — President Teddy Roosevelt and media mogul Ted Turner — the bison has traveled an unlikely path from ubiquity to near extinction to rising star of the culinary scene.The problem now is that Americans — who last year bought 31 million pounds of bison meat, about double from five years earlier — have become so unfamiliar with the meat, most don’t know how to prepare it.“Bison meat is utterly delectable, similar to beef though more intense and not at all gamey,” says chef John Ash, author of “American Game Cooking.” But because it’s so low in fat, bison also is easy to overcook and turn tough.At its peak, the North American bison (also called buffalo) may have numbered close to 125 million. But by 1900, they had been hunted to near extinction. The population began a slow bounce back in 1905, when Roosevelt founded the American Bison Society, the United States’ first effort to save the iconic animal.Bruce Aidells, author of “The Complete Meat Book,” also credits Turner with helping the bison’s culinary comeback. Turner has sought to make the meat a part of the American menu once again.It’s working. In recent years, bison has begun showing up on a growing number of restaurant menus and has become a staple at larger grocers and natural food stores. Even big box retailer Costco began carrying it in 2007.

David Carter, executive director of the National Bison Association, says bison enjoys a “sweet spot” between interest in healthy foods, sustainable farming and a broadening American palate.Nutritionists like bison because it is low in total fat, saturated fat, sodium and dietary cholesterol. It also is nutrient-dense, containing a high proportion of protein and minerals relative to calories.Ground bison and bison sirloin steaks can be found in most supermarkets, and an even wider range of cuts can be purchased from specialty meat purveyors.Bison can be used in the same ways you would beef, but the leanness of the meat comes with a downside — it has to be cooked carefully or it can easily dry out and become tough.It is best to cook bison steaks to a rare or medium doneness, so if you prefer your meat well done you may want to stick with beef.Ground bison is quite versatile and works well for tacos, chili, meatloaf and meatballs. The latter two are especially good if you add some moisture in the form chopped onions or moistened, fresh bread crumbs.For the most part, bison are pasture-raised and healthy, meaning ranchers don’t need hormones and antibiotics. It’s also healthy to eat. The leanest cuts have just 143 calories and 2 grams of fat per 3 1/2-ounce serving, compared with 9 grams for the leanest cut of beef.The flavor of bison is quite similar to beef, but perhaps a bit more intense and meaty.Carter points out that there is some variation in flavor because unlike cattle, bison are still a relatively wild animal and most ranchers want to keep it that way to preserve the natural quality of their product.But leanness comes with a price. While bison is interchangeable with beef in most recipes, it requires a little extra attention because the meat is so lean.Tender cuts, such as steaks, have little fat marbling the way a good beef steak does. Which means they should be cooked to no more than medium-rare or the meat will come out dry and tasteless, says Ash.On the other hand, tougher cuts, such as chuck, brisket and short ribs, need to be cooked at a low temperate for a long time in order to get tender results.Ash says that a good introduction to bison is a steak or a burger. These also are the cuts most readily available grocers.For steak, he prefers simple preparations that allow the unique flavor of the meat to come through, such as a simple rub of olive oil and a sprinkling of salt and pepper for steaks.Using ground bison, which usually is more than 90 percent lean, presents a slightly different challenge. A bison burger, for example, will have the best flavor and texture if it is cooked to rare or medium-rare at the most. Federal guidelines recommend cooking ground beef (and bison) to at least 155 degrees, which amounts to medium-well to well done. But that will give you a dry and crumbly bison burger.If you do plan to cook ground bison past medium-rare, Ash recommends adding some fattier ground beef or even pork to help keep it moist.Aidells has a similar approach. He likes to add plain yogurt and fresh bread crumbs to his bison burgers, meatloaves and meatball blends.But if you prefer your meat well done, you can still enjoy bison, says Aidells. He feels that the tougher cuts, such as the brisket, chuck and short ribs, often are overlooked and can be the most enjoyable parts of the bison.The tougher meat has much less fat than the same cut of beef, but has substantially more collagen, which is the connective tissue in the muscle. When cooked at a low temperature over a long time, this collagen eventually melts, creating fall-apart-tender meat.Braising tougher cuts in a flavorful liquid, says Aidells, is an excellent way to go. The rich flavor of the bison meat stands up well to intense seasonings.Though ground bison and some types of steak are widely available, to get some of the other cuts you may need to ask your butcher or even order from a purveyor of specialty meats. Go to bisoncentral.com for a list of sources for bison meat.

WHAT TO DRINK WITH BISON

“Most buffalo is grass-fed before the animals are finished on grain,” says Gourmet magazine food editor Ian Knauer. “As you might expect, the flavor of the grasses comes through in the meat. A great way to spotlight those naturally grassy flavors is to pair them with a particularly grassy beer,” he says.For beers, Knauer suggests Green Flash Brewing Co.’s West Coast IPA. “It’s so hoppy that, at first whiff, it reminds me of a freshly cut lawn,” he says.Then chase the beer down with rye whiskey, since rye is also a grass. The chaser will “only help to heighten the whole cowboy experience,” says Knauer.

Below are some recipes to get you started.

BISON CHILI—Yield: 6 servings

2 tablespoons canola oil2 medium yellow onions, diced2 red bell peppers, cored and diced6 cloves garlic, minced1 canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce, diced2 teaspoons chili powder2 teaspoons cumin2 teaspoons cayenne pepper2 teaspoons smoked paprika2 pounds ground bison1 (28-ounce) can chopped tomatoes2 (14-ounce) cans kidney beans2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantroSalt and ground black pepper, to tasteSour cream, to serveLime wedges, to serve

Procedure:1.Add oil to large saucepan set over medium-high heat. Add onions, bell peppers and garlic. Sauté until onions are soft, about 5 minutes. Add chipotle, chili powder, cumin, cayenne and smoked paprika. Sauté another minute.2. Add bison, chopped tomatoes and kidney beans. Bring to a simmer, cover, then reduce heat to low. Simmer 30 minutes. When ready to serve, stir in cilantro. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with sour cream and lime wedges.

Lean ground bison gets added moisture from feta cheese and spinach in this Greek-style burger. A quick sauce made with yogurt and fresh herbs is the perfect condiment (that also can stand on its own as a delicious dip for vegetables or pita chips).

GREEK BISON BURGERS WITH YOGURT SAUCE—Yield: 4 servings

1 pound ground bison1/2 cup cooked chopped spinach, squeezed dry1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese3 teaspoons chopped fresh dill, divided1 teaspoon each chopped fresh oregano, ground cumin and minced garlicKosher salt and ground black pepper3/4 cup nonfat or low-fat Greek-style plain yogurt1 teaspoon lemon zest2 teaspoons lemon juice1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint4 French rolls or 4 (4-inch) pieces of baguette, split and toasted16 thin slices English cucumber8 slices tomato4 thin slices red onion

Procedure:1.Heat grill to medium-high. In large bowl, gently combine bison, spinach, feta, 2 teaspoons dill, oregano, cumin, garlic, 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Be careful not to overmix. Form into 4 oval-shaped patties roughly the size of the rolls. Set aside.2. For yogurt sauce, combine yogurt, lemon zest and juice, remaining dill and mint in small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.3. Oil grill rack using an oil-soaked folded paper towel held with tongs. Grill burgers until an instant-read thermometer inserted at the center registers 155 degrees, about 5-6 minutes per side.4. Assemble burgers on rolls with yogurt sauce, cucumber, tomato and onion.

Source:March-April issue of EatingWell magazine

Nutrition data  per serving: 392 calories; 16 g fat (6 g saturated); 68 mg cholesterol; 30 g carbohydrate; 35 g protein; 6 g fiber; 671 mg sodium.

A tough cut of meat, the short ribs become meltingly tender when cooked slowly over low heat. In this recipe, bison short ribs, which are leaner than beef, are simmered in a broth flavored with Thai red curry paste, garlic, ginger, cilantro and fish sauce.Bison short ribs can be found at specialty meat markets and online. For bone-in short ribs, both English-style (a single bone with a chunk of meat attached) and flanken-style (thinner cut with 3 to 4 ribs per strip) will work for this recipe. Remove any silver skin — the tough, silvery-looking membrane lining the meat-side of the ribs — before cooking.

RED CURRY BISON SHORT RIBS WITH BABY BOK CHOY—Yield: 6 servings

1 1/2-2 teaspoons red curry paste (more or less to taste)3 cloves garlic3 (1/8-inch-thick) slices peeled fresh gingerroot1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro stems plus 1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves, divided6 scallions, coarsely chopped1/2 cup water2 teaspoons canola oil3 pounds bone-in bison short ribs or 2 pounds boneless, trimmed2 cups thinly sliced red onion1 1/2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth3 tablespoons bottled fish sauce2 tablespoons lime juice, or more to taste3 ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced1 cup light coconut milk6 baby bok choy, cut in half, or 3 regular bok choy, quarteredGround black pepper, to taste

Procedure:1.In blender or food processor, combine curry paste, garlic, gingerroot, cilantro stems, scallions and water. Blend until a loose paste forms. Add more water if mixture is too dense to blend. Set aside.2. Add oil to large pot or Dutch oven set over medium heat. Add ribs and brown on all sides, about 6-8 minutes total. Stir in red curry mixture, onion, broth, fish sauce and lime juice. Bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, turning ribs every 30 minutes, until meat is very tender when pierced with a fork, 2-2 1/2 hours. Transfer ribs to platter; cover to keep warm.3.Add tomatoes and coconut milk to broth in pot. Bring to a simmer. Add bok choy, then cover and cook until thick ends of bok choy can be easily pierced with a fork, about 10-20 minutes. Season with pepper and more lime juice, if desired.4.Serve ribs alongside bok choy in soup plate, topped with cilantro leaves. Or use curry to top bowls of jasmine rice.

Source:March-April 2009 issue of EatingWell magazine

Nutrition data per serving: 211 calories; 4 g fat (1 g saturated); 79 mg cholesterol; 12 g carbohydrate; 31 g protein; 3 g fiber; 759 mg sodium.

Ground bison is especially lean, which means that cooking it past medium can leave it especially dry. In this Middle Eastern meatball recipe from Bruce Aidells, author of “The Complete Meat Cookbook,” chopped onion, bread crumbs, milk and an egg keep the mixture moist even after being thoroughly cooked. The meatball mixture can be prepped up to 6 hours before cooking; the cilantro-yogurt sauce can be made a full day ahead.

MIDDLE-EASTERN BISON MEATBALLS WITH CILANTRO-YOGURT SAUCE—Yield: 6 servings

SAUCE:1 teaspoon each fennel and cumin seeds1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds1 1/2 cups chopped fresh cilantro1/2 cup whole-milk Greek-style yogurt3 scallions, chopped2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint1 tablespoon each lemon juice and olive oil1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage leaves1 teaspoon sugarSalt and ground black pepper, to taste

MEATBALLS:3 tablespoons olive oil, divided1 cup finely chopped yellow onion6 cloves garlic, minced1/2 cup bread crumbs (ideally fresh made from crustless French bread)1 tablespoon whole milk2 tablespoons minced seeded jalapeño chile2 tablespoons whole-milk Greek-style yogurt1 1/4 pounds ground bison1 large egg, beaten1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage1 teaspoon kosher salt1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

Procedure:1. For sauce, combine fennel, cumin and coriander seeds in dry skillet over medium heat. Toast, stirring often, until aromatic and slightly darker in color, about 2 minutes. Transfer to plate to cool 5 minutes. In spice mill or clean coffee grinder, finely grind seeds. Set aside.2. In blender, combine cilantro, yogurt, scallions, mint, lemon juice, olive oil, sage and sugar. Add 1 teaspoon of the ground seeds, then blend, scraping sides of blender as needed, until smooth. Season with salt and pepper, then cover and refrigerate.3. For meatballs, heat 1 tablespoon oil in a small, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add onion and garlic, then sauté until soft, about 7 minutes (do not brown). Set aside to cool.4. In small bowl, combine bread crumbs and milk.5.In food processor, combine cooled onion mixture, bread crumb mixture, remaining ground seeds, chile and yogurt. Pulse to form a coarse puree. Transfer mixture to medium bowl. Add bison, egg, cilantro, sage, salt, pepper and allspice. Mix (with hands or fork) until just blended. Using damp hands, form mixture into 1 1/4-inch balls. Cover and chill at least 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.6. Heat remaining oil in large, heavy nonstick skillet. Working in 2 batches, cook meatballs until browned on all sides, about 8 minutes per batch. Keep cooked meatballs warm in oven up to 15 minutes. Serve with cilantro-yogurt sauce for dipping.

Source:Bruce Aidells

This recipe for grilled, marinated open-faced bison steak sandwiches uses a balsamic vinegar-and-shallot marinade to add flavor and moisture. Use bison steak medallions, bison strip or rib-eye steaks for the best results. The low-fat, creamy horseradish-chive sauce provides the perfect accent to the bison steak and peppery baby arugula. Try it on your favorite steak, burger or even as a dip for crispy, fresh vegetables.

GRILLED MARINATED BISON STEAK SANDWICHES—Yield: 4 servings

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar1/4 cup finely chopped shallots3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard4 (6-ounce) bison sirloin steaks, each about 1 inch thick4 slices sourdough bread2 cups baby arugula, washed and driedCreamy Horseradish-chive Sauce (see below)

Procedure:1. In small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, shallots, olive oil and mustard. Place steaks in zip-close plastic bag and add half the balsamic dressing. Turn to coat well. Set remaining dressing aside. Place sealed bag in refrigerator and marinate at least 2 and up to 8 hours.2. Heat gas grill to medium or prepare charcoal fire. Remove steaks from marinade and pat dry with paper towels. Oil grill rack using an oil-soaked folded paper towel held with tongs. Grill steaks to medium doneness, 3-4 minutes per side. Do not overcook.3. While steaks cook, grill bread, turning once, until toasted, about 1 minute per side. Toss arugula with reserved balsamic mixture.4. To assemble sandwiches, top each bread slice with dressed arugula and steak. Serve immediately, topped with a dollop of Creamy Horseradish-chive Sauce.

Nutrition data per serving: 556 calories; 116 calories from fat; 13 g fat (3 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 105 mg cholesterol; 58 g carbohydrate; 49 g protein; 3 g fiber; 756 mg sodium.

CREAMY HORSERADISH-CHIVE SAUCE—Yield: 4 servings

2 tablespoons each reduced-fat mayonnaise and reduced-fat sour cream1 tablespoon each prepared horseradish and finely chopped chives1 teaspoon white-wine vinegar

Procedure:• In small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, sour cream, horseradish, chives and vinegar. Store in refrigerator.

Nutrition data per serving: 26 calories; 18 calories from fat; 2 g fat (1 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 4 mg cholesterol; 2 g carbohydrate; 0 g protein; 0 g fiber; 81 mg sodium.

Bison, nearly hunted to extinction by 1900, are making a comeback and finding their way onto the plates of health conscious consumers. Consumption of bison meat has about doubled in the past five years and is now readily available. Photo by THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

A hoppy beer is the perfect accompaniment to Bison Chili. Photo by THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

Keeping lean ground bison moist is key when cooking the healthy meat. The feta cheese and spinach in this Greek Bison Burgers with Yogurt Sauce creates a moist and intensely flavored burger. Photo by THE ASSOCIATED PRESS