If you thought chocolate topped the flavor hit parade, you would be wrong. It’s vanilla that is America’s No. 1 flavor. And it’s far from “plain vanilla.”

The flavoring is derived from the cured beans (seed pods) of a climbing vine in the orchid family. Native to Mexico, it is also grown in Indonesia, Madagascar and Tahiti. It is one of the world’s most labor-intensive and expensive crops because every flower must be hand-pollinated on the one day a year that it blooms.

Vanilla can stand alone or be used to boost the flavor of other ingredients, especially eggs, dairy products, sugar and chocolate. Though usually thought of with desserts, vanilla is also a complement to seafood, veal and poultry dishes.

Here are pointers for using vanilla in its various forms.

Vanilla beans

These are the dried, fermented pods of the vanilla orchid. The cured pods or beans should be pliable, moist and plump. Beans that are hard, shriveled and lusterless will also lack flavor and aroma. The beans can be used whole, or split to release the flavored seeds.

They should be stored in an airtight container in a dark place.

Thrift tip: Vanilla beans are expensive, but they’re powerful and you can use them several times before discarding them. Or dry them for several days and pulverize them with granulated sugar in a food processor, strain to remove large pieces of the pod and use as a vanilla-scented sweetener.

Vanilla seeds

It is in the seeds that much of the vanilla flavor is located. To remove them, slice the bean lengthwise with a sharp knife and scrape out the seeds with the back of the knife.

Vanilla extract

Vanilla beans impart the truest flavor, but pure vanilla extract is often a useful substitute.

When substituting extract for beans, add it toward the end of the cooking process or increase the quantity to compensate for the diminished flavor. The rule of thumb is that 1 teaspoon of extract equals a 2-inch piece of bean.

Shopping tip: When buying vanilla extract, make sure the label says “pure.” Imitation vanilla is a synthetic product with inferior flavor.

Make your own: Place two split vanilla beans in a glass bottle or jar; add one cup unflavored vodka. Seal and store in a dark, cool place. Shake the bottle gently every couple weeks. After about two months, you’ll have homemade vanilla extract – a lovely gift.

• • •  

SHRIMP WITH VANILLA MOJOYield: 4 servings

Cook’s note: A chardonnay with oak and light tropical fruit, such as the 2005 Blackstone Monterey County, makes a perfect match with the citrus and vanilla flavors.

1 small onion, coarsely chopped2 garlic cloves1 teaspoon each ground cumin, dried oregano and kosher salt1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice1 tablespoon rum3 tablespoons olive oil1 vanilla bean, split open16 jumbo or large shrimp, peeled and cleaned2 tablespoons minced cilantro leavesHot, cooked rice for serving

Procedure:

Process onion, garlic, cumin, oregano, salt, pepper, juices, rum and olive oil in blender until smooth. Pour into saucepan and add vanilla bean. Bring to boil; immediately reduce heat and simmer 3 minutes.

Stir in shrimp and bring sauce just to boil. Remove pan from heat. Cover and set aside about 3 minutes, or until shrimp are pink.

Remove shrimp with slotted spoon to warm platter. Remove vanilla bean and save for another use. Place sauce over high heat and boil about 5 minutes, until reduced and slightly syrupy. Pour sauce over shrimp, scatter with cilantro leaves, and serve with rice.

Source: Adapted from Allen Susser, chef-owner of Chef Allen’s in Aventura, Fla.

Sausage, spinach and cheese-stuffed shells Photo by (AP Photo/Larry Crowe)