Don’t tell the kids, but macaroni and cheese didn’t always come from a box.With lineage that can be traced to 13th-century Italy, and later the English settlers who brought it to the colonies, baked pasta tossed with melted cheese has long been an American favorite.

Today, macaroni and cheese generally takes one of two forms – pasta tossed with either a smooth cream-and-cheese sauce (technically, Mornay sauce) or with a more custardlike blend of egg yolks, milk and cheese.

The former is the version most Americans associate with this now-iconic comfort food.

Ready to capture that classic comfort food? Here’s what you need to know:

The pasta

Technically, any pasta will work. But for it to work well, a pasta needs crevices in which to trap the cheese sauce.

Elbow macaroni and shells work well, but testing gave the edge to elbows, which hold their shape better under the heavy sauce. Even better are oversize elbows.

The way and degree to which the pasta is cooked are equally important. Salted water – and lots of it – is essential for the best flavor and texture. For a pound of pasta (enough for six people), you’ll need 2 tablespoons of salt and 6 quarts of water.

And while most guidelines warn against overcooking pasta, this is one time that letting it go a little long is desirable. The test cooks at Cook’s Illustrated magazine found it essential to cook the pasta until tender, or just past al dente. This produces more starch and makes the pasta more absorbent, allowing the sauce to better adhere to the pasta.

Ekya recommends sprinkling the pasta with a bit of olive oil once it is drained.

This prevents the pasta from sticking together, making it easier to stir in the cheese.

The cheese

Traditional versions of macaroni and cheese usually call for cheddar, a nod to the dish’s English roots. But plenty of good variations are made with Monterey jack, pepper jack and Gruyere, among others. The key here is a low-moisture cheese, or a semifirm cheese, something soft enough to melt into a creamy sauce, but not so high in fat that it will separate, as blue cheeses do.

A blend of Monterey Jack and sharp cheddar spiked with some assertive Parmesan produces a creamy macaroni and cheese with a sharp flavor and just a hint of pungency. For a spicier version, substitute Pepper Jack for the cheddar.

To ensure the cheese melts evenly, it should be grated.

The sauce

For a creamy macaroni and cheese, the sauce is key. It acts as the base of the dish, giving smooth body to the cheese (which is melted into the sauce), preventing it from melting into unappealing lumps.

The sauce starts as a simple roux, a blend of equal parts butter and all-purpose flour that is gently heated until thickened. Adding warmed milk (cool will create clumps) and cheese transforms it into a creamy Mornay sauce.

For best results, stick with whole milk. Other milks will work, but you will sacrifice some of the lush flavor that defines this dish. Likewise, any butter will work, but unsalted butters give you the most control over the taste of the finished product.

Age isn’t kind to Mornay sauces. For this reason, it’s best to prepare the pasta first, set it aside, then make the sauce, which requires short, but focused, hands-on time.

The baking

Once you’ve tossed your pasta with the cheese sauce, you could dig in.

However, there is serious payoff to transferring it to a baking dish, sprinkling it with bread crumbs, if desired, and letting it do time in the oven. Baking produces a cheesier consistency by taking out some of the moisture and allowing the cheese to bind the pasta. It also allows you to add a crunchy topping, which provides a pleasant contrast to the soft, creamy pasta and cheese.

BAKED MACARONI AND CHEESEYield: 6 servings

1/2 cup unsalted butter, plus 2 tablespoons, divided2 tablespoons salt, plus more to taste1 pound elbow macaroni1 tablespoon olive oil3 1/2 cups whole milk1/2 cup all-purpose flourGround black pepper, to taste2 cups grated sharp cheddar cheese, divided2 cups grated Monterey Jack cheese1 cup grated Parmesan cheese, divided1 cup panko or other coarse bread crumbs

Procedure:1. Preheat oven to broil. Position an oven rack to center of oven.

2. Use 1 tablespoon of butter to generously coat a 3-quart casserole dish.

3. For pasta, bring 6 quarts water to boil in large stockpot. Add 2 tablespoons salt, stir briefly, then add pasta. Cook until tender and just past al dente, about 10-13 minutes, or slightly longer than package directions.

4. Drain pasta, then transfer to large bowl. Drizzle olive oil over pasta, then toss to coat. Set aside.

5. For sauce, bring milk to simmer in small saucepan over low heat. Remove pan from heat.

6. In medium saucepan over medium heat, melt 1/2 cup butter, using a whisk to swirl it to ensure that it melts completely and does not turn brown. If butter begins to brown, lower heat.

7. While whisking, sprinkle in flour. Continue to whisk until mixture just bubbles, about 2 minutes. Do not let mixture brown. While whisking, slowly pour in milk. Continue whisking until there are no lumps.

8. Bring sauce to boil, then reduce heat to low and season with salt and pepper. Continue whisking until sauce reaches the consistency of heavy cream and coats the back of a spoon, about 2 minutes.

9. Remove sauce from the heat. Whisk in 1 1/2 cups cheddar cheese, all the Monterey Jack and 1/2 cup Parmesan. Whisk until cheese is completely melted and sauce is smooth.

10. Pour sauce over cooked pasta and gently toss to coat. Transfer pasta and sauce, using a rubber spatula to scrape the bowl, to prepared casserole dish. Set aside.

11. In small microwave-safe bowl, melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter by microwaving on high about 20 seconds. Add bread crumbs and remaining cheddar and Parmesan cheeses. Toss well.

12. Spread bread crumb mixture evenly over pasta.

13. Place baking dish on oven’s middle rack and broil 6-8 minutes, or until edges are bubbly and a crunchy crust forms on top. Cool briefly before serving.

President-elect Obama, right, hugs Iraq war veteran Tammy Duckworth, director, Illinois Department of veterans Affairs, following a wreath laying ceremony at the Bronze Soldiers Memorial in honor of Veteran’s Day, Tuesday, Nov. 11, 2008, in Chicago. Photo by THE ASSOCIATED PRESS