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Time to climb: Pacific Northwest offers different challenges for Colorado adventure-seekers

About 100 miles off the lush, green coastline of the Pacific Northwest, two tectonic plates collided along a boundary that stretches from British Columbia to northern California. Over the past few million years, this geologic setting has created a spectacular landscape of looming volcanoes draped with massive glaciers, jagged ridges of rock dating back millions of years and deep canyons carved through ancient layers of lava.

The region is as diverse as Colorado in terms of the climbing opportunities available to outdoor adventurers. From technical summits in the North Cascades to a trek across one of Mount Rainier’s glaciers to a hike up the talus fields of Mount St. Helens, the Pacific Northwest can be a paradise for anyone with a passion for climbing.

Because the region typically sees only three solid months of good weather every year – June through August – locals make the best of those months, packing every free moment with outdoor adventures, backyard barbecues and festivals. The active culture of hikers, climbers, boaters and sportsmen is similar to Colorado’s, but there are some important differences that Coloradans should consider in planning an adventure-themed vacation to the Northwest:

While most of the major summits of the Cascades are lower than most of Colorado’s peaks, many routes are quite physically and technically challenging. In addition, tree line is at a considerably lower elevation because of the northerly latitude and constant barrage of Pacific Ocean storms throughout the winter. June through August is the primary climbing season, though the best time to go depends on the peak and route.

April, May, September and October can have good weather, but it is less predictable – an entire week could just as easily be filled with bluebird days as it could a constant, pervasive shroud of low-lying clouds and misty rain. There will be plenty of lingering snow at lower elevations in the late spring, making conditions favorable for ski mountaineering. Routes will have less snow in early fall, but this makes glaciers icier and route-finding through crevassed sections trickier.

Even the highest peaks in Colorado are typically snow-free by the end of July, but snow in the Cascades remains year-round. There are plenty of options for hikers who would rather avoid snow, but an ice ax, crampons and some basic snow climbing skills open up a world of climbing possibilities in the Northwest. Glacier travel skills – namely crevasse rescue and roped travel – increase the options even further. Avalanches aren’t usually an issue in the summer, but they have happened under unusual conditions, so snow-climbers should be aware of the forecast, especially in the late spring. Information is available online through the Northwest Avalanche Center at nwac.us.

In Colorado, 3,000 to 4,000 feet of elevation gain is standard for most summer fourteener hikes, whereas many mountains in Washington involve 5,000 to 6,000 feet of elevation gain. Fortunately, the thunderstorms that roll into Colorado’s high country in the afternoons of July and August are not nearly as common in the Cascades.

Time, equipment, and the skills and fitness levels of the group all factor into choosing a climb and planning a trip to the Cascades. Some of the more remote and difficult climbs take several days, but many popular and iconic climbs can be done in one to three days.

While the summer months are generally clear and warm, the region is still very wet – the temperate rain forest on the Olympic Peninsula is there for a reason. A waterproof tent, waterproof boots and a synthetic sleeping bag are essential.

Some climbs can be safely and easily done solo, while others are best attempted with a partner or group.

Climbing to the summit of Mount Rainier involves more than 9,000 feet of elevation gain, carrying 40 to 50 pounds of gear for half of that, a 10- to 14-hour summit day, and doing all of this on very little sleep. On the other hand, a hike up Mount St. Helens requires only 3,500 feet of elevation gain, and with an early start, you can be back at the trailhead in time to make it to one of Portland’s many brewpubs for happy hour.

Permits are required and access to climbing is limited in Mount Rainier National Park and Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument, so both of these mountains require planning weeks to months in advance.

For peaks such as Mount Hood, Mount Baker and the Three Sisters, however, the only red tape is a voluntary climbing register and possibly a $5 parking pass that can be purchased at the trailhead.

THE MOUNTAINS

Mount St. Helens – Monitor Ridge

Round-trip distance: 6 miles

Elevation gain: 3,500 feet

Skill level: Hiking

Probably the most family friendly hike of the Cascade volcanoes, this route follows a well-marked trail through the forest at the base of the volcano and ascends talus slopes the rest of the way to the crater rim.

The views are breathtaking, but steep drops into the chaotic pit of rock, ash, ice and fumaroles below and unpredictable cornices make it wise to exercise caution when exploring the rim.

Mount Hood – South Side/Old Chute

Round-trip distance: 8 miles

Elevation gain: 5,300 feet

Skill level: Snow-climbing

Starting from the Timberline Ski Area at the base of the mountain, this route can be accessed year-round. A climber’s trail that parallels the ski area boundary leads to broad, gentle snow slopes that ascend past rocky outcrops draped with thick blankets of snow and ice to the Hogsback, a narrow snow ridge about 1,000 feet below the summit. From here, the route traverses patches of rock exposed by heat and gas rising from miles below the surface to a narrow chute that climbs to the summit ridge. Crampons, an ice ax and a helmet are essential gear for Mount Hood.

Mount Rainier – Disappointment Cleaver

Round-trip distance: 12 miles

Elevation gain: 9,000 feet

Skill level: Glacier travel, snow-climbing, snow-camping

Towering above the Seattle skyline on a clear day, Mount Rainier is the highest Cascade volcano, and a summit attempt is not to be undertaken lightly. The route is relatively straightforward, but park regulations require a minimum of two people for climbing above 10,000 feet (three to four is recommended), and climbers should be well-versed in crevasse rescue and snow climbing.

A rudimentary shelter at Camp Muir has bunk space for about 25 people, but it is first come, first serve, so everyone planning on staying at Camp Muir should be prepared to camp in the snow.

Three companies – Rainier Mountaineering Inc., International Mountain Guides and Alpine Ascents International – offer three- to five-day guided ascents and instructional courses on the mountain. (These climbs cost more than $1,000 per person, but include food, group equipment and permit fees, so they are a good option for climbers with no or limited glacier experience.) However, due to Rainier’s popularity and the limited number of campsites, these trips often fill up in the late fall before the next summer season, so they require several months of planning ahead.

Mount Baker – Coleman Glacier

Round-trip distance: 11 miles

Elevation gain: 7,000 feet

Skill level: Glacier travel, snow climbing, snow camping

Starting from the Heliotrope Ridge trail amid the thick trees of the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, the route follows gentle slopes to the foot of the glacier, where it traverses below the jagged pyramids of Lincoln and Colfax Peaks to a saddle of exposed rock. This rocky ridge climbs to a 35- to 40-degree snow gully that leads to the summit plateau.

No permits are required, but there is a voluntary climbing register at the Mount Baker Ranger Station. The Easton Glacier route, which approaches the mountain from the opposite (south) side, is slightly longer, but the elevation gain and technical difficulty are about the same.

Mount Adams – South Spur

Round-trip distance: 12 miles

Elevation gain: 6,600 feet

Skill level: Hiking, snow-climbing

After winding through towering stands of old-growth timber, Trail 183 emerges onto the flanks of Washington’s second highest mountain. Gentle slopes of rock and firm snow (though it softens up by midafternoon on clear summer days) lead to the summit. Glissading certainly saves time on the descent and adds to the fun factor, but climbers should be proficient at self-arrest before attempting it.

Permits are available from the Mt. Adams Ranger Station in Trout Lake, Wash., and cost $10 (Monday-Thursday) to $15 (Friday-Sunday).

South Sister – South Ridge

Round-trip distance: 12 Miles

Elevation gain: 5,000 feet

Skill level: Hiking, scrambling

Part of a cluster of volcanoes in central Oregon, South Sister is a long yet straightforward hike up with sections of easy scrambling. By late summer, most of the snow will be melted, exposing slopes of loose, reddish-brown scree. The nearby Deschutes River makes this part of Oregon an ideal destination for a multisport trip.

More information: geomaps.wr.usgs.gov/parks/noca/nocageol1.html

Clouds on Mt. Hood's crater rim. Amy McMillin, Special to The Gazette
Clouds on Mt. Hood’s crater rim. Amy McMillin, Special to The Gazette
Mt. Hood. Amy McMillin, Special to The Gazette
Mt. Hood. Amy McMillin, Special to The Gazette
Camp Muir. Amy McMillin, Special to The Gazette
Camp Muir. Amy McMillin, Special to The Gazette
Looking down the Ingraham Glacier on Mt. Rainier's Disappointment Cleaver route. Amy McMillin, Special to The Gazette
Looking down the Ingraham Glacier on Mt. Rainier’s Disappointment Cleaver route. Amy McMillin, Special to The Gazette
Mt. Adams, seen from Takhalakh Lake. Amy McMillin, Special to The Gazette
Mt. Adams, seen from Takhalakh Lake. Amy McMillin, Special to The Gazette


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