Grilling a leg of lamb can be a lengthy chore; cooking times can reach two hours, and you can’t wander off too far in case you need to turn the lamb or extinguish flare-ups. Once the meat is cooked, you have to figure out how to carve the lamb.Switch to a boneless, butterflied leg of lamb. The meat will look ungainly shorn of its bone. But the flavor will be all lamb, and a butterflied piece of meat drinks in the flavors of any marinade you choose.This recipe has an Indian accent, thanks to the meat marinating overnight in spiced yogurt. You’ll need to plan ahead, but it takes only a few minutes to mix the marinade. Serve the lamb with basmati rice, stir-fried spinach with charred garlic, chutney and raita, a cucumber, yogurt and mint dip.Tips: Greek-style yogurt is thicker than the ordinary stuff and holds on to the meat better during marination.Use any seasoning you like on the meat. A mix of olive oil, garlic, mustard and fresh oregano is one strategy; a spice rub accented by chipotle in adobo sauce is another.Beverage: A pinot noir from California’s Central Coast has enough weight to handle the lamb.Ask your butcher to bone and butterfly the lamb for you.

BUTTERFLIED LEG OF LAMB—Makes: 10 servings

2 cups plain Greek-style yogurt2 tablespoons each: cumin, Madras-style curry powder1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard1 teaspoon each: hot sauce, salt, black pepperJuice of 1 lemon1 leg of lamb (about 4 pounds), boned and butterfliedProcedure:1. Mix all ingredients except lamb in medium bowl. Slather mixture over lamb in shallow pan; massage meat gently to work marinade into the tissue. Cover with plastic wrap; refrigerate overnight.2. Prepare grill for direct, medium-high heat. Grill lamb 8 minutes per side. Check for doneness; grill until desired temperature is reached, about 15 minutes for medium. Let lamb rest 5 minutes on cutting board. Cut lamb into thin slices before serving.Nutrition data per serving: 346 calories, 50 percent of calories from fat, 19 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 114 mg cholesterol, 5 g carbohydrates, 37 g protein, 378 mg sodium, 1 g fiber

A butterflied leg of lamb is easier to handle and quicker to cook than a bone-in leg. Photo by MCCLATCHY