Cansano Italian Restaurant recently dropped steakhouse from its name, although the word still crops up online and other places; it likely won’t be missed. After all, the menu, with only three steak offerings, has always been focused on Italian cuisine.

And what a focus it is!

From fresh pastas and sauces to innovative spins on classic dishes, meals here are a treat. Excellent service and industrial chic décor also contribute a fine dining experience.

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We started with arancini allo zafferano ($15). Three breaded and lightly fried, golden-crusted orbs, the size of golf balls, adorned with wine-red cherry tomatoes and ribbons of fresh basil, were placed on splotches of orange tarragon aioli. Many arancini are thick with rice with cheese hidden in their center. Cansano’s golden-crusted version was a blend of Arborio rice mixed with saffron and mozzarella in equal, albeit gooey, measures. The crispy exterior and creamy interior were a convergence of tastes and textures.

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The two numbers associated with the 10-layer lasagna ($32) immediately caught our attention: the description and the price. This is one of the restaurant’s most popular items, according to our server, and based on our tasting, it was worth every penny. This was not a high stack of ribbed noodles with tiers of meat sauce and cheese. Instead there were thin sheets of pasta, melt-in-your-mouth pieces of braised short rib with a fresh Pomodoro sauce. A dusting of grated Parmesan and shredded basil topped the dish. Additional flavor came from the rim of olive oil around the substantial serving.

There really is nothing like fresh tomato sauce; it might be simple in terms of the number of ingredients, usually just tomatoes, olive oil and basil, but it tastes like a summer garden.

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There are nine pasta dishes divided by Italy’s three regions: northern, central and southern. Each has different sauces and shapes. It was difficult to choose, but ultimately, tagliatelle ($27) was ordered. The long, ribbon-shaped pasta coated with olive oil was paired with a blend of porcini and wild mushrooms, which imparted an earthy element. This was topped with a dollop of house-made ricotta cheese that when mixed into the pasta created a rich, velvety sauce.

I noted that the ricotta was available as an appetizer ($16) served with truffle honey and toasted sourdough bread. Had I known how rich, but delicate the ricotta was, I would have ordered it as a starter. It’s on my list for my next visit.

In addition to the pastas, the menu features several seafood, pizza and chicken entrees — along with the aforementioned steaks.

The open kitchen was only visible from the entryway. Once fully inside the dining area, our eyes turned to the room’s different shades of red with black accents.

Then, attention was drawn to the large, fun photo of a messy child with a bowl of spaghetti and the three vertical panels of edge-wood slabs on the opposite wall. Even with the high ceilings, the large space was never exceptionally loud.

We particularly appreciated Rod, our server, for his knowledge of the menu and his attention to detail.

Cansano Italian

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Upscale Italian cuisine

Location: 1895 Democracy Point

Contact: 719-884-2865; cansanoitaliansteakhouse.com

Prices: $12 to $58

Hours: 4 to 9 p.m. daily

Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Patio.

Favorite dishes: 10-layer lasagna and tagliatelle

Other: Limited gluten-free and limited vegan options available.