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Wine Guy: Carménère emerges as Chile’s flagship grape

Chile has long been a source of good value wines, mostly a variety of French-origin grapes. But over the past 30 years, a previously little-known grape, carménère, has become widely considered Chile’s flagship grape (although cabernet sauvignon is still the most widely grown grape). An offspring of cabernet franc, it was common in Bordeaux in the 19th century but now is almost exclusively grown in Chile.

There are regional variations and stylistic differences, but typically carménère is a deeply colored wine that displays intense, juicy, rich red and black fruit, appealing pungent, earthy notes with cocoa and peppery spice, a smooth texture, and solid but sleek tannins.

Assuming most readers are unfamiliar with the grape, I suggest starting at the introductory level. The wines offer fine value given the quality. At around $20 or less , they all deliver a lot of character for the money.

2021 Viña San Esteban “In Situ” Reserva ($13), earthy, minty, chocolate.

2020 Luma Chequén Gran Reserva ($17), loamy, menthol, pepper.

2021 Morandé Vitis Única ($20), pure fruit, herbal and spice notes.

2020 Primus ($21), a brand of Veramonte, organic, tart, roasted notes, fullish body.

2020 Primus “The Blend” ($21), mostly carménère and cabernet sauvignon, velvety but firm, vegan,

Numerous wineries also are producing refined, complex carménère. Quality has reached the point where prices for the best wines can approach $100.

The 2019 Ventisquero “Vertice” Carménère/Syrah Apalta Vineyard ($35) is woodsy, with a touch of oak, full flavored, with good body and a hint of chocolate.

The 2020 Montes “Wings” ($55) is fruit forward, tangy with dried plum, a hint of oak supplies a little richness, and a flavorful, rounded palate and fresh finish.

The 2019 Ventisquero “Obliqua” La Roblería Vineyard ($60) is fresh and tart, with gentle spice, white pepper, herbal notes, a forest quality. It is elegant, with a firm structure, crisp tannins,and a luscious finish.

With its distinctive flavor profile, food friendliness and generally reasonable prices, carménère wine from Chile deserves more consumer attention. It certainly has mine.

Just one glass of wine or other alcoholic drink a day significantly raises the risk of breast cancer (iStock Photo)
Just one glass of wine or other alcoholic drink a day significantly raises the risk of breast cancer (iStock Photo)


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