Porkbutt, as a stand-alone word, might inspire guffaws among a certain age group, but add BBQ and there’s nothing to snicker at; instead, there’s plenty to appreciate about well-prepared smoked meats.

Given the name, though, the menu was less pigcentric than one might expect. Sure, pulled pork, ribs and link sausages were available, but there was much more: turkey, brisket, fried chicken sandwich and even a burger. As much as I savored several of the entrees, the sides warranted an equal amount of attention.

Also noteworthy, Porkbutt is gluten-free, and most items are made in house. This includes sauces and desserts. The breads are locally sourced.

The best way to sample several items is to order a trio, available in two sizes. The small includes a quarter pound of brisket, three ribs, one sausage link, one side and a beverage ($30). The large has a half pound of brisket, half a rack of ribs, a sausage link, two sides and two drinks ($55). We were told by the friendly employee who answered our questions and took our order that the former is just right for two and the latter works well for three, possibly four — depending on appetites.

From the list of sides she recommended the mac-n-cheese and fried smashed potato. Other options included meaty beans, fried Brussel sprouts, sweet potato fries, coleslaw and cornbread. We might have added the Brussel sprouts to our order, but they were sold out. We heard several who arrived after us express their disappointment about that news. This not only suggested there were a lot of regulars, but also the side’s appeal.

Unable to agree on which house-made sauce to order, we chose the flight ($2.50) that showcased the kitchen staff’s creative range: honey barbecue, sweet heat, creeper, chipotle aioli, Carolina gold and Alabama white.

Food arrived on paper-lined trays that served as our plates. Two thick slices of brisket, complete with burnt ends, shared the spotlight with the caramelized-rubbed ribs.

The sausage was a pre-sliced link and with the sides proved to be a substantial meal while providing enough leftovers for lunch the next day. A bargain and a good meal can never be underestimated.

The meats were tender with smoke-infused flavors that were further enhanced by the sauces. Our favorites, by order of preference, were sweet heat, Carolina gold and honey barbecue. The St. Louis ribs were so fork tender the meat fell off the bones. Surprisingly, the brisket was fattier than the ribs. Thus, it was especially juicy and offered no resistance when cutting pieces to eat.

When it came to flavors and execution, the meats shared the spotlight with the sides. The smashed potatoes were unlike anything I’d considered. Large baked potatoes are smashed, with skins on, cut into pieces and then fried. Crispy pieces of spuds hid soft, buttery bits for a remarkable texture combo.

We added the suggested mac-n-cheese ($6), which was velvety smooth and rich. It was evident a good, strong cheddar provided the base.

Porkbutt had its start as a food truck and has been in its current digs since June.

Porkbutt BBQ

Barbecue for dining-in or takeout.

Location: 2220 Academy Place

Contact: 1-719-698-6126; porkbuttbbq.com

Prices: $9 to $55

Hours: Noon to 8 p.m. Wednesday to Saturday

Details: Credit cards accepted. Wi-Fi.

Favorite dishes: Ribs, fried smashed potatoes, brisket.

Other: Menu is completely gluten free.