Denver’s SubCulture has an unexpected ethos that focuses on sandwiches, specifically the submarine variety. Get it?!

This eatery is all about what can be placed inside sliced freshly baked rolls — and here the possibilities are numerous and impressive. With 60 options, plus soups and salads, populating the menu it is easy to understand the culture here.

The French rolls, which are made daily, are crispy on the outside and practically shatter with each bite, but the interiors are soft and chewy.

They’re the perfect foundation for whatever ingredients are used to build the subs.

Trying to decide from such an extensive list of possibilities is difficult. Categories include Classics, Veggie, Colorado Beef, Roast Pork and Deli (which is the largest grouping). And there are seven salads from which to choose as well as a choice of two daily soups. Ordering took some time and I was grateful to have people in line ahead of us and no one behind — at least for a short time.

Sandwiches are ordered at the counter and brought to the table wrapped in butcher paper.

The Monte Cubano hits all the taste buds with sliced ham, turkey, pickle, mustard and garlic mojo. Sauces are made in house; the mojo is tangy and bold. The toasted roll, like all of the subs, is available in two sides: whole ($13.95) and half ($8.95).

Even the smaller size is a hearty serving.

The garlic mojo was also featured on the Ratatouille ($9.25/$13.95), along with roasted peppers, eggplant, grilled onions, squash, tomato pesto and provolone. The roasted veggies with the two sauces would work well on pasta, but I was happy to have the toasted roll to hold it all together.

A slight variation on a sub is the Giro ($10.45). This is everything that might be included in a traditional Italian sub, but served in a metal bowl with a small section of a French roll.

There’s salami, capicola, provolone, black olives, sweet peppers, sliced cherry tomatoes and onions. I suggest the house vinaigrette, although other dressings include balsamic, thousand island, ranch and Caesar. Again, all are made in house.

The roasted pork options are made with a pineapple and spices marinade. The menu touts that the meat is roasted for 12 hours, which explains its tenderness in the Tuk Tuk ($9.50/$14.35).

Pulled pork is further enhanced with a sweet chile sauce and coleslaw. The sauce has more of a bite than a caress, but still made for an exceptional sandwich.

The shop is housed in the historic Penn Garage building in Capitol Hill. The interior is industrial chic with exposed brick walls. According to the restaurant’s website, the legendary Molly Brown stored her Fritchle 100-mile Electric car there, which makes for a fun fact.

Another interesting aspect of SubCulture is the chance for an entire order to be free based on the luck of the draw — literally, by selecting a special card from a large deck.

We didn’t pick the right one, but were winners when it came to our meal choices.

SubCulture

Submarine sandwiches and more for dining in or carryout.

Location: 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., Denver

Contact: 1-303-420-3232; thisissubculture.com

Prices: $8.25 to $15.25 (CQ)

Hours: 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Friday, Saturday and Sunday. (CQ)

Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Outside dining.

Favorite dishes: Ratatouille sub and Tuk Tuk sub.

Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.