Dear Ken: I got a flyer in the mail that offered to sell me water line insurance for that line that goes out to the street for about $65 a year. Do you think this is a good deal? — Hannah

Answer: Not really. The chance of a water line causing problems is slim. It’s very rare that the line from the street to the water meter acts up. Why? The utility companies and the city code authorities always have required that that line be a continuous piece of pipe — that is, with no joints that could break down or leak. So whether it’s the more traditional copper line or the more modern PEX plastic line, it’s essentially invulnerable. So save your money and tell them no thanks.

The line you really have to worry about is, of course, your sewer pipe.

If your home was built before the mid-’70s, you may have an antiquated style of either cast iron or clay tile, both of which have joints every few feet that can allow roots to intrude. So it’s important to get it looked at with a fiber optic TV camera and then scoured out on an as-needed basis.

There are a few companies around that will insure this line, but the plans are pricey and include lots of exclusions. So shop around diligently and pay attention to their online ratings.

Dear Ken: I had my furnace checked and they suggested an electrostatic filter. I never heard of them, but I’ve seen they are very expensive. Are they really worth the money for what you get? — Al

Answer: I’m not a fan of electrostatic — so-called “lifetime” — filters.

As you say, they are quite pricey; theoretically you get to amortize that extra money over time because they are washable and not disposable.

However, I like to throw my dirt away. After you wash this filter on the driveway with a hose a few times, I’m guessing there are still particles of pet dander and hair plus mold spores and other pollution remaining that are just not thoroughly rinsed out. So it’s a better idea to opt for the more reasonably priced corrugated paper filters, changed monthly.

Dear Ken: Some neighborhood kids are knocking over my planters at night. Do I have to invest in a security camera, or what other ideas do you have? — Daryl

Answer: I think motion detector floodlights would be helpful. They will not only startle those rascals, but they are also a great way to save energy.

Why leave a bulb burning all night long when with this arrangement, the lights can stay off until they are needed? And they don’t necessarily need to be a utilitarian floodlight set; there are handsome coach light models available to use next to the front door and on the front of the garage.

Dear Ken: I’m buying another house. If lead paint is present, is that a big problem? — Maegan

Answer: If the walls and ceilings are in good shape, it’s usually not.

You’ll notice in the real estate paperwork that the EPA requires a lead paint warning for homes built up until 1978. Actually, because of FHA/VA property standards, most of it was gone by the early ‘70s.

But there’s another problem: In those days, drywall finishing components contained small amounts of asbestos fibers. So in an older home (pre-1980), assume you have both hazards and take commonsense precautions.

As long as all the surfaces are covered by layers of modern latex paint, you’re OK. But if you were to remodel, these unwanted contaminates could be released into the interior air space.

How to ameliorate it? Wear protective clothing and use high-quality breathing masks; tent off areas of demolition with heavy plastic; keep all surfaces wet to avoid dust pollution; and seal all the rubble in plastic bags.

Finally, thoroughly clean all drapes and carpets plus the heating system. Go to the local health department and EPA websites for more tips.

Dear Ken: After reading your recommendation, I’ve decided to get a whole house fan. You mentioned I may need more attic ventilation. Is that always true with these? — Cherrie

Answer: Usually. Look in the installation instructions for the fan you have in mind. It will recommend a certain minimum total square footage of attic venting to allow the huge volume of air to escape quickly and efficiently.

You may find that you’ll have to add some new vent elements— like a gable vent or two in the ends of the attic, or additional flat roof vents.

Try to get as close as you can to the recommendation so the fan will operate as designed — otherwise it will labor excessively and may be noisier then you like.

Dear Ken: I removed old carpet on a concrete floor. How can I remove the glue residue so I can do something else with the floor? — Danny

Answer: The only reliable way to get this stuff off, of course, is to use a floor grinder — messy and expensive.

But first, let’s see if it’s dissolvable. Try a test area with both mineral spirits and water to see what solvent works with it. Once you figure that out, you can soften it up and scrape it off with a wide-blade putty knife.

P.S. Mineral spirit fumes are toxic and flammable in higher concentrations. So provide plenty of ventilation with a box fan, take frequent breaks and keep the fumes out of the furnace/water heater area!

Ken Moon is a home inspector in the Pikes Peak region. His call-in radio show airs at 4 p.m. Saturdays on KRDO, FM 105.5 and AM 1240. Visit aroundthehouse.com