What a year this has been. It’s time to ring in 2021 with the wish for a return to normalcy around the world.

With Christmas feasting behind us, our thoughts turn to what to eat on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day. In many cultures, this is the time to eat food thought to bring good luck in the coming year.

Traditions have a way of hanging on over the years. We talked to a celebrity Southern cookbook author and a few locals who settled here from other parts of the globe and brought theirs with them.

Black-eyed peas, collard greens and cornbread

These are the go-to foods for Americans who have Southern connections, according to Nathalie Dupree, Charleston, S.C.-based cookbook author and expert on Southern cooking.

“The eating of field peas (black-eyed peas) with rice on New Year’s Day is a traditional Southern custom,” she said. “Whether dried, canned or even fresh, they are cooked until tender. The purpose of eating peas, collards and cornbread is to bring good luck.”

“As 2021 quickly approaches, many people hope it will bring good fortune and encourage that notion by preparing lucky foods as good omens,” said Brother Luck, chef and owner of Four by Brother Luck and Lucky Dumpling. “My Southern heritage always meant we would cook staples like black-eyed peas, ham hocks with collard greens, or cast-iron cornbread on New Year’s Day.”

However, this year Luck will switch things up.

“I’ve experienced every emotion this year has to offer, but I don’t want to walk away with a negative experience,” he said. “Even as my businesses are partially closed, I’m still feeling hopeful for 2021. I close out the last few days of this momentous year with an appreciation for the now.

“This is time for new traditions, and I’ll start by re-creating a dish from my past. Instead of simmering black-eyed peas, I’ll be preparing dirty rice. This dish is simply a reminder that you can have the worst ingredients given to you but still prepare something magical. It takes experience, imagination and passion to achieve this result.”

Dirty rice is made with what some cooks might toss away: chicken livers and gizzards. They’re mixed with ground pork and white rice. But it’s a spicy, flavorful Cajun dish that gets its “dirty” color from the finely chopped chicken parts, which also give the dish a deep, rich flavor.

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Schwein haben

This is German for “lucky pig,” according to Dieter Schnakenberg, manager of Edelweiss German Restaurant, which is owned by his parents.

“Mom said the meaning is to be lucky,” he said. “I have heard of them selling marzipan pigs in Germany with a minted penny from the new year. I will ask my pastry chef if there is any way we can make some of those for 2021 in hopes of a better year.”

The little pigs are molded from marzipan, which is a thick paste made of sugar, corn syrup (or honey) and finely ground almond flour. Sometimes it’s flavored with rosewater, almond extract or vanilla. Marzipan can be colored and shaped into sweets that look like fruits or vegetables or even to cover a cake.

“Of course, this year has been terrible,” Schnakenberg said. “As owners, we have worked harder than ever, just to have more and more restrictions put on us. Let’s hope 2021 and the vaccine will turn it all around.”

Galette des rois

One of France’s New Year’s traditions actually takes place a few days after Jan. 1. The galette des rois, or king cake, is traditionally eaten on the first Sunday of the year to celebrate the Epiphany in Christianity.

The cake is often made with puff pastry and frangipane, an almond-flavored cream or paste, but it can be filled with plenty of other sweets instead. Regardless of its filling, the galette des rois hides the coveted fève, or bean — a ceramic trinket or charm — and the person who finds it is graced with good luck.

Blandine Mazéran, owner of The French Kitchen 4 in 1 Culinary Center, will be making and selling the galettes.

“We always carry king cakes for the entire month of January,” said. “Our cake is made of two discs of puff pastry filled with almond cream. We hide a super-cute French trinket inside the cake. Tradition says that whoever gets the trinket gets to choose to be a king or queen for the day.”

She will offer freshly made cakes in three sizes: small (serves one to two), mediumfour to six) and large (eight to 10). They’ll last for a few days or can be frozen.

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Oliebollen

Otherwise known as Dutch doughnuts, oliebollen (or “oil balls”) are a favorite of Arina Drakluch, who grew up in Holland.

“All the Dutch eat them on New Year’s Eve,” she said.

While they’re not available year-round in Holland, she said, “Boonzaaijer’s (a Dutch bakery on Fillmore Street) always has them on Saturday mornings.”

“Yes, oliebollen is a New Year’s tradition and some street vendors will sell them around the year in their food carts,” said Stephan Boonzaaijer, owner of the bakery. “We make them every Saturday morning but we will make them every day the last week of the year.”

He had another special treat suggestion: appelflappen. It’s an apple beignet.

“This is not your New Orleans beignet,” he said. “This is a thick round slice of cored apple, filled with almond paste, wrapped in puff pastry and deep fried. It is a must try.”

He will have the beignets through Thursday. But he warns, “Lines could be a 15- minute wait and probably will not be ready until 9 a.m.”

Cotechino con lenticcie

Franco Pisani, owner of Paravicini’s Italian Bistro and Sopra Antipasto and Wine Bar, makes some version of this dish every year for New Year’s Day. It’s an Italian green lentil stew with sausage.

“Green lentils are used because of their greenish color and coin-like appearance, which, when cooked, plump with water,” he said. “It symbolizes growing wealth.”

This year, Pisani is making the dish using lentils and sausage meatballs as a to-go New Year’s Eve meal package.

Here’s to a happy 2021, no matter what food you decide to usher it in with!

contact the writer: 636-0271.