Dining review: Bison, crab cakes among treats at Ted’s Montana Grill
Jeff Kearney, special to the gazette
When media mogul Ted Turner meets Big Sky Country, it should come as no surprise that the result is Ted’s Montana Grill, the Western-themed chain restaurant in the Promenade Shops at Briargate.
Ted’s is smaller than expected, but the west-facing outdoor dining area provides expansive views. Still, the interior is crowded with servers having to step aside from one another and diners needing to take care when pushing chairs back to stand. The menu has a range of options sure to please carnivores, pescatarians, vegetarians and even kids. The massive bison head that takes center stage above the bar is a bit misleading, since the place is not all about meat. Yet it’s certainly worth ordering.
Even with a reservation, we had to wait the same 15 minutes as the walk-ins. This inconvenience was soon forgotten, thanks to the friendly server who greeted us as soon as we were seated and presented a small bowl of “half sours.” These are thick slices of cucumbers that go through half the pickling process; the result is a crunchy, refreshing, not-quite-tart bite.
St. Phillips Island crab cake at Ted’s Montana Grill is one of the restaurant’s popular appetizers. It’s also available as an entree, with two crab cakes rather than one with the starter
Granted, St. Phillips Island is nowhere near Montana, but the crab that hails from this South Carolina coastal area is the foundation of one of the Grill’s popular appetizers: crab cake. With guacamole and kale salad ($14), it’s a Southwestern spin. This is also available as an entree, with two cakes rather than one with the starter. Still, the single crab cake, with no detectable binder, was easy to share despite the inclination to be selfish. Flaky pieces of lump crab meat were herb-seasoned and augmented with chunky guac and the vinaigrette-laced kale, which had corn kernels, diced tomatoes and bits of grilled jalapeño pepper.
Several families with young children were in the dining room, and after seeing the children’s menu, it makes sense. This is no dumbed-down version with PBJs and plain noodles, but rather smaller versions of the main menu entrees. The prices are reasonable ($5 to $11), so it makes sense to bring the whole family rather than spring for a baby sitter. Even with all tables filled, the noise was not overwhelming. A disappointment was the long gap between appetizer and entrée. Fortunately, we had plenty to talk about. And once the food arrived, we were more than satisfied.
The balsamic blue steak salad ($15) features grilled sirloin with thick slices of fresh, juicy tomatoes, plus bacon bits, cucumbers, mixed greens, blue cheese, fried onion straws and a balsamic dressing. I ordered medium rare, which the server verified would be pink but warm in the center. It was. I hadn’t expected such perfection in a salad. Each component complemented the other.
The bison short ribs ($21) warranted a nod of approval from our server. The braised bison was tender and juicy. The substantial serving had three ribs thick with meat. The house-made mashed potatoes with gravy on the side were a comfort-food accompaniment. The menu boasts, “We’ve re-introduced bison to America’s table and in doing so created a market for this protein-rich, nutrient-dense meat. Bison is the cornerstone of our menu and we are proud to serve more bison than any other restaurant in the world.”
Whether the claim is true or not, Ted’s offers bison in various forms including chili, filet, ribeye, New York strip, chopped steak, meatloaf and pot roast. Several hamburger choices, poultry and seafood entrees are among the menu items.
