Dear Ken: Which do you prefer for decks? Real wood or composite materials? – Mitch

Answer: It depends on your budget. Composite (plastic) decking is fairly expensive, but definite advantages accrue over the years to offset the extra initial outlay, mainly extremely low annual maintenance. Redwood, of course, is the gold standard in real wood, but it, too, is pretty pricey. A third choice might appeal to you if resources are limited. It’s pressure-treated Southern yellow pine. This wood is infused with chemicals that resist rotting, mildew and insect infestation, even when installed close to the ground. Many lumberyards offer limited lifetime warranties on this product if maintained properly. Bottom line: It’s a moderately priced alternative to composite or redwood decking that will give you many years of service and enjoyment.

Dear Ken: When I turn on a hot water faucet, it runs at the right volume, but then it decreases rapidly. Why does this occur? – Jan

Answer: If your faucet is a compression (washer) type -the most traditional and common style – take it apart and make sure the washer and its screw are tight. Many times the incoming hot water will swell a misaligned washer, which then reduces the water flow. If the faucet is a single-handled ball type, buy a rebuild kit to replace all the critical parts, such as springs, washers, gaskets and O-rings. The third arrangement – and most convenient to adjust – is the internal cartridge type. You simply remove the old one, replace it and – voila – you have what amounts to a brand new faucet.

Dear Ken: Can you suggest what can be done with pitted spots on a cement driveway and the entrance to the garage floor? – Nancy

Answer: You’re describing “spalling” – the deterioration of the top thin layer of cement, which exposes the aggregate (rocks) beneath. You can apply a thin coat of concrete patching material – sometimes labeled a “vinyl concrete patch” – as a sort of medium term solution. This material comes as a powder you mix with water to form a soupy substance that you trowel on to the deteriorated areas. One drawback: You’re limited to about 1/4 inch of coverage with each application, so you can see this is mostly a cosmetic fix. The patch will break down relatively quickly, especially under severe use, such as on a driveway or when exposed to freezing temperatures on the north side of the house.

Dear Ken: We are replacing our older wood windows with vinyl. One of the dealers uses spray foam around the opening, and the other uses fiberglass. Do you have a preference? – Charlie

Answer: I like the foam, simply because it oozes its way into unseen nooks and crannies, into which you may not be able to manually stuff the fiberglass. It’s analogous to my predilection for blown vs. batt insulation in the attic. The former insinuates itself into the farthest reaches of the hard-to-reach attic spaces to eliminate drafts.

Dear Ken: I recently tore up the grass carpet covering my concrete porch. I can’t get rid of the remaining black spots of backing and adhesive. I’ve tried mineral spirits and wire brushing with detergents. Any suggestions besides painting the porch black? – Carl

Answer: Try power washing. If you do it carefully, you can blast away a minute portion of the concrete surface, which is holding the backing/glue residue in place. Take it slowly at first, because it’s easy to go too deep. Once the stains are gone, you may want to apply a water-based concrete stain in, say, a gray tone to blend all the portions together.

Dear Ken: The seams in our kitchen linoleum are starting to separate and rise.Can I fix this myself? – Charlie

Answer: Try to sneak a little vinyl flooring adhesive or Liquid Nails under the seams and apply a heavy weight overnight. Once the seams are flat again, you should apply a liquid, silicone-based seam sealer over the cracks.

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Moon is a home inspector in the Pikes Peak region. His radio show airs at 9 a.m. Saturdays on KRDO, FM 105.5 and AM 1240. Visit aroundthehouse.com