Canned tuna is underrated. While most keep a can or two on hand for the occasional tuna salad sandwich, it’s rare to stray far from that for this tasty and versatile protein.

Canned tuna can be used as a protein swap in many recipes, and it’s shelf-stable, inexpensive and chock-full of protein. One cup of drained canned tuna packs about 40 grams of protein, so it’s filling enough for lunch or dinner.

Budget cooks take note: Tuna is easy to nab on sale, even for name brands, so load up since it has an incredibly long shelf life.

Most tuna seems to be packed in water these days to save calories. But I prefer the flavor of oil-packed fish – it tastes more like fresh fish – so I keep a couple of oil-packed cans for recipes where I want a richer flavor.

Also, I keep a can (or jar) of high-end tuna in my pantry – a quality tuna packed in good olive oil will turn tuna dishes into restaurant-quality, but it’ll cost more.

Once you have a nice stock of canned tuna in the pantry, get creative. Consider almost any recipe where you use chicken or fish, and see if you can’t substitute tuna.

Tip: The more sophisticated the dish, the higher end the tuna should be.

Mixing up tuna patties? Chunk light tuna on sale is perfect. Sauteeing up tuna in olive oil, garlic, lemon zest and chili flakes to toss with pasta? You’ll want to spend a little more.

If you’re worried about having flashbacks to your childhood of eating pink-spiky, tuna-flecked mayo slathered between slices of white fluffy bread, my suggestion is to think about ethnic flavor profiles to redirect your taste buds – Italian (mix tuna into spicy tomato sauces), Thai, Chinese and Mexican dishes made with canned tuna are some of my favorites.

CHOPPED ALBACORE SALAD WITH ASIAN DRESSING

–

Yield: 4 servings

4 cups chopped romaine lettuce 3/4 cup chopped green beans 3/4 cup chopped carrots 1/2 cup chopped red sweet pepper 1/4 cup quartered grape tomatoes 1/2 avocado, cubed 1/4 cup chopped almonds (or cashews) 2 scallions, chopped 3 5-ounce cans albacore tuna, drained 1/4 cup chopped cilantro

For the dresssing: 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger 1 garlic clove, finely minced (or 1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic) 2 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce 2 tablespoons lime juice 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar 1/4 teaspoon Sriracha, or other hot sauce (or more if desired) 1 teaspoon sesame oil 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil, or other neutral oil

Procedure:

Place all the salad ingredients in a large bowl. In a small bowl, vigorously whisk together the dressing ingredients. Spoon about half of the dressing onto the salad and toss to coat. Taste, and add more dressing as desired. Serve immediately.

Nutrition information per serving: 300 calories; 150 calories from fat; 17 g fat (2 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 47 mg cholesterol; 379 mg sodium; 11 g carbohydrate; 5 g fiber; 4 g sugar; 28 g protein.