Dear readers: If you haven’t already, don’t forget to winterize exterior watering systems. Remove hoses from spigots – even if they are labeled “freeze proof” – or they might ice up and split this winter. If you have a finished basement, one forever solution is to cut a hole – say, 4 inches by 10 inches – in the ceiling joist below the spigot pipe and cover it with a metal, louvered grille. That arrangement will allow some warm air to waft up into that space to protect the pipe and the faucet.

It’s also time to turn off the main valve feeding the sprinkler system from inside – plus the drains outside to let air into the pipes. Use the clock to cycle all the valves – one at a time – for about 10 seconds each to let trapped water dribble out. Finally, turn the clock to the rain setting so the empty zone valves are not energized during winter.

Dear Ken: How can I clean my kitchen cupboards? Do you like Murphy’s Oil Soap? – Brenda

Answer: Murphy’s is OK for simple cleaning. But if your cabinets are pretty “polluted,” it would be best to clean them and then recondition the wood. A product such as Scott’s Liquid Gold can do both. Or, simply apply good furniture polish or oil such as Olde English. For stubborn finger marks on the edges, use mechanics gel hand cleaner on a rag; white vinegar or mineral spirits (paint thinner) also will cut through years of gunk. You’ll have to decide which combination works best, but start with the least volatile products.

If the cabinets are a dated stain color – such as the almost black colors used in the 1970s – consider painting them. Scrub them with a cleaner such as TSP (trisodium phosphate) and then degloss with 120 grit sand paper. Two coats of a shellac-based primer such as BIN 1-2-3 will provide a smooth undercoat for an alkyd-based top coat of enamel. Doors and drawer fronts should be lying horizontally when painted. A paint sprayer offers the best results, but if you do them by hand, only dip the brush in halfway and then sweep only one way. You’ll get the hang of it quickly and, after adding new hinges and knobs, you’ll have a bright, modern kitchen.

Dear Ken: My hubby put a new faucet in, but it’s smaller than the old one. There is a stubborn gray ring I can’t get rid of. Can you help? – Vivian

Answer: This material is probably chalking or plumber’s putty that has hardened and stained over the years. Begin by applying some 3-M caulking remover. It’s a gel that you apply and let sit for about two hours. After that, ease off the material with a super sharp putty knife. If you are patient, most of it will release. For the remaining stain, try one of the bleach-based tub and shower cleaners.

Dear Ken: I have siding on my house that has curled out about an inch or so. How do I repair it? – Jim

Answer: It probably expanded after being installed. Clapboard-style siding needs “elbow room” on each end so it can expand and contract with temperature. If the joints at the ends of the curled boards are tight, you’ll need to remove each piece and cut 1/4 inch or so off the length. When you reinstall the boards, try to use the same nail holes. The new gap can be covered with special metal spacer strips available at the lumber yard. They will allow the boards to slide a little underneath, but the gap will be hidden.

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Moon is a home inspector in the Pikes Peak region. His radio show airs at 9 a.m. Saturday on KRDO, AM 1240 and FM 105.5. Contact him at aroundthehouse.com.