Dear readers: Have you checked your crawl space lately? I hope there isn’t a surprise waiting. With the recent rain, many have discovered unwanted moisture in the crawl space. In fact, it’s not uncommon to find standing water.

Eliminating this moisture is difficult because crawl spaces are poorly ventilated – usually only three or four small openings to the outside. Nevertheless, it’s vital to get rid of the water for two reasons. First, this region’s soils contain alkaline salts, which are carried into the crawl space with the moisture. These chemicals can begin to attack the concrete foundation and footers. Also, the water creates high humidity and that can lead to mold formation on the wood-framing members and the sidewall insulation.

The first step to get this under control is to roll back any plastic sheeting and install several fans to suck in new, dry air. Restoration companies are best at this because they use high-velocity fans. Plus, they can install a dehumidifier to accelerate the drying process.

These troubles typically are associated with drainage deficiencies. Install some of that black, plastic extension piping to all the downspouts and run the pipes at least 10 feet away from the house. Also, check the slope of the soil next to the house. It should angle at least 1 inch down per foot of outfall. If you have grass and/or sprinkler heads within 5 feet of the house, they should be replaced with dryscape.

If your house is newer, you might have a so-called “conditioned” crawl space. This is an arrangement that seals the crawl space dirt and foundation with an “envelope” of heavy duty plastic on top of the dirt “floor” and up the sides. That way, you get to eliminate exterior vents and save energy. Trouble is, these spaces can flood for the same reasons. After the recent spate of wet weather, it would be a good idea to cut a hole here and there in the plastic and look for excess water. A little dampness is OK, but if the soil is saturated and muddy or if there is standing moisture, you need to call a restoration outfit.

Dear Ken: I want to paint my ’70s wood trim and doors. They are a natural wood color, but I want them brighter and more modern. Can you tell me the steps? – Mike

Answer: It’s not difficult. First, use fine sandpaper to degloss them – that is, to remove the clear lacquer topcoat. If there are greasy, dirty areas – such as fingerprints – use some TSP or mineral spirits to degrease them. Then remove the doors and lay them across sawhorses. The secret is to use a good primer. If you have the extra time, oil-based formulations are the toughest. If not, choose a good acrylic product such as Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3. Apply the first coat, then lightly sand the surface before you apply the second. You will have created a good, solid base for your ultimate topcoat of stain or semigloss paint.

Dear Ken: Do you have a comment on whether chain-drive or belt-drive garage door openers are better? – Derek

Answer: I like the chain setup. Unlike a belt, the chain doesn’t stretch or otherwise deform, plus it provides more security.

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Moon is a home inspector in the Pikes Peak region. His radio show airs at 9 a.m. Saturday and is carried on KRDO, AM 1240 and FM 105.5. Contact him at aroundthehouse.com.