Pinot noir at its best is all about expression of its source. Wine folks use terms like appellation and terroir to encapsulate the influence of all the factors — climate, soil, and humans — that contribute to the making of a wine. With pinot noir, these seem to be even more important than with other wines.

Certainly, there are typical characteristics attributable to the pinot noir grape: aromas and flavors that center on cherry and brown (baking) spices, earthy notes, silky texture, and purity of fruit. In California, there are several appellations where fine pinot noir is made. In my recent tastings, most were represented and produced wines I can recommend below.

Mendocino County. The isolated, rugged terrain of this far northern California county, especially the Anderson Valley, arguably is the state’s most unsung winegrowing region. But it shouldn’t be for long. As the Anderson Valley cuts laterally through the coastal range, its cool Pacific influence, long growing season and hillside vineyards are ideal for producing world-class pinot noir.

• Goldeneye. Founded in 1996, Goldeneye is a pinot noir-focused winery created by the proprietors of Duckhorn, the well-regarded producer of Napa Valley merlots and cabernet sauvignons. The winery was an early supporter of the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance and recently achieved LEED Gold certification for the winery. The 2009 Anderson Valley ($55) displays the typical power and elegance that have made this a signature wine of the region.

• Champ de Reves. This is a pinot noir-only winery created by the Jackson family of Kendall-Jackson fame. The 2010 Anderson Valley ($40) is notable for dark fruit and minerality.

• La Crema. For more than 30 years, La Crema has specialized in chardonnay and pinot noir from the major cool-climate appellations. The 2009 Anderson Valley ($50) shows the varietal expression of the area’s coastal and forest influences.

• Bonterra. Bonterra is a 20-year-old project of Fetzer Vineyards, one of the pioneers of sustainable practices in California. It has become the No. 1-selling brand of wines in the U.S. made with organic grapes. The 2010 Mendocino County ($14) combines fruit from Anderson Valley and other Mendocino vineyards resulting in a wine notable for brightness and forward fruit.

Russian River Valley. The Russian River flows south from Mendocino to Sonoma, and this appellation encompasses an area surrounding the river as it turns west to drain into the Pacific Ocean. Characterized by cooling coastal fog and sandy loam soils, vintages are marked by slow-ripening and concentrated fruit.

• Rodney Strong. Established in 1959 by professional dancer Rodney Strong, this winery has developed a reputation for high quality, even as its volume has grown. It also has been a leader in the sustainability movement, even powering the winery totally with solar energy.  The 2010 Reserve ($40) is a classic Reserve featuring individually selected blocks from estate vineyards. It is concentrated, rich and complex, but balanced with good acidity and a soft palate. The 2010 Russian River Valley ($30) is crisp and vibrant fruit finishing smooth and silky.

• Patz & Hall. Since establishing their wine business in 1988, Donald Patz, James Hall, Anne Moses and Heather Patz have sought to craft premier, single-vineyard chardonnays and pinot noirs from the best appellations. The 2010 Chenoweth Ranch ($55) expresses this vineyard’s smoke and chocolate character, balanced with nice acidity.

2010 La Crema Russian River Valley ($40); this one is accented with vanilla and black licorice and a juicy finish.

Sonoma Coast. If pinot noir thrives in cool climates, the Sonoma Coast is heaven. The result? Lower yields, enhanced concentration and brisk acidity. Extending from the Mendocino/Sonoma border down the coast, across the Russian River, then south to Carneros, the common feature is lingering ocean fog and brisk winds that moderate temperatures throughout the growing season and slow the ripening process.

• MacRostie. Steve MacRostie established this winery 25 years ago, dedicated to producing mostly chardonnay, pinot noir, syrah from Carneros and Sonoma Coast fruit. The 2008 Wildcat Mountain Vineyard ($40) is a selection of the best barrels from the 14 year-old mountainside ranch located near the appellation’s border with Carneros. This fog-shrouded, sustainably farmed mountaintop vineyard with its volcanic soils has produced a highly structured, powerful wine. The 2009 Sonoma Coast ($34) is a blend of four vineyards showing admirable complexity with cola and cocoa notes.

2010 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast ($45).; juicy red fruits accented with cinnamon, earth tones delivered in a lush texture.

• Roth. This family-owned winery focuses on Bordeaux varietals from Alexander Valley, Russian River Valley sauvignon blanc, and Sonoma Coast chardonnay and pinot noir. The 2009 Sonoma Coast ($28) has pure, ripe varietal flavors, with excellent depth and complexity.

\• Landmark. This 38 year-old winery is located on a beautiful spot in the Sonoma Valley. Best known for its chardonnays, the 2009 Grand Detour ($40) — notable for its anise notes and broad texture — will help establish a fine reputation for pinot noir.2010 La Crema Sonoma Coast ($24). Another La Crema winner: red fruits, ripe, lush flavors, earth tones and dark chocolate.

See my next column for pinot noir recommendations from Monterey, Arroyo Grande Valley and Santa Barbara County.—Rich Mauro has been writing about wine since 1995. He is a policy analyst for the Denver Regional Council of Governments. Reach him at rich@rmpeoplespalate.com or 30 S. Prospect St., Colorado Springs 80903.