THE WINE GUY: Value wines for spring, Easter and Passover
It has always struck me that wine has had and continues to have a significant role in many cultures and religions. I have read that in Judaism wine represents the holiness and separateness of the Jewish people. With the Passover holiday coming soon, it is important to find good kosher wine for the Seder celebration of the Jewish people emerging from Egyptian bondage.
Yarden. One of the most prestigious Israeli wineries is Golan Heights, whose Yarden range is one of the most recognizable and reliable brands. The 2007 merlot ($22) is a fine example of the variety and the 2009 chardonnay ($18) is loaded with juicy fruit. But take note, these wines are good enough to drink anytime.
In Christianity, wine figures prominently in the New Testament. Being raised Catholic, I always had a fascination with the symbolic role of “sacramental wine.” In my family, Easter always has marked the “real” beginning of spring. The optimism conveyed by the Resurrection is embodied in the warmer weather and signs of new life all around us.
There also are signs of new life in the economy. But budgets are still tight for most people. With that in mind, I have assembled a list of reliable value-priced wines to mark the new season.
Parducci. This Mendocino winery, founded in the late 1800s by Italian immigrants, employs eco-friendly practices and a socially responsible business model to produce wines of excellent character at very modest prices. A great example is the 2010 “Small Lot Blend” Pinot Noir ($12). Its pure cherry fruit, lighter body, and silky texture provide an excellent complement to the lighter dishes typical of this time of year. The refreshing 2010 chardonnay ($11), with its citrus, pear and tropical fruit shows why chardonnay is still the most popular white wine in America.
Kendall-Jackson. For more than 25 years, K-J’s Vintner’s Reserve line has offered some of the most reliable values in California wine. During that time, the company built a worldwide wine empire with wines in all price categories. But the line has maintained high quality at reasonable prices. The 2009 cabernet sauvignon ($19) boasts berry/currant flavors and firm structure; cab is still No. 1 with consumers. The 2008 merlot ($19), with its bright berry fruit and soft texture, explains why still merlot still finds many fans.
Rodney Strong. For more than 50 years, this Sonoma County winery has been a leading producer of good wine values. In recent years, it has added excellent high-end bottlings, but not at the expense of the value wines. This also is another winery that takes sustainable practices seriously in all its operations. The 2010 chardonnay ($14) and 2009 cabernet sauvignon ($17) continue the string of fine values carrying the Sonoma County designation.
Big House. This value brand is as notable for its multi-varietal blends featuring grapes of Mediterranean origin as for its creative, humorous labels. Being located “a mere ankle iron’s toss from the Soledad State Correctional Facility,” explains the recurring prison theme on the labels. The 2011 Big House White is a blend of more than 10 aromatic varieties, with viognier and malvasia as the base. The 2010 Big House Red ups the ante with more than 18 varieties in the blend. And Big House recently added single-varietal wines to the lineup (pun intended). The 2010 “Unchained Naked Chardonnay” was “freed from the frequent sentence” of barrel use and malolatic fermentation. There is also a 2010 “The Usual Suspect” cabernet sauvignon and 2009 “The Slammer” Syrah. All these wines display impressive fruit and flavor interest for a modest $10.
Carmel Road. Another winery in the Jackson family stable, Carmel Road has produced solid pinot noir and chardonnay from Monterey fruit for almost fifteen years now. The 2010 Monterey County Chardonnay ($18) and 2010 Monterey County Pinot Noir ($20) are good examples of the bright flavors and supple textures possible in this cool-climate region. And the 2010 “Liberated” Chardonnay ($16) is another tasty, all-stainless steel rendition.
Cru Vin Dogs. Cru Vin Dogs is a notable wine operation combining a love of wine, art and dogs. Although the headquarters is in Denver, the owners partner with vintners from around the world. The Loyal Companion series of wines come from Sonoma County and go for just $13. Each bottle features an illustration of a shelter dog by artist Jay P. Snellgrove.A portion of sales is dedicated to helping local animal shelters and rescue groups. The Sonoma Red Wine Lot No. 2 Syrah (mostly Syrah and cabernet sauvignon, with dollops of malbec and zinfandel) offers plenty of plum and dark berry fruit, finishing quite dry. The Sonoma Chardonnay Lot No. 2 blends spice, citrus and tropical fruit.
Enjoy any of these wines and celebrate the promise of the new season.—Rich Mauro has been writing about wine since 1995. He is a policy analyst for the Denver Regional Council of Governments. Reach him at rich@rmpeoplespalate.com or 30 S. Prospect St., Colorado Springs 80903.






