I’m not one to complain that there’s too much on my plate (that’s why we have to-go boxes) but one of my most common restaurant complaints is that they have too much on theirs — overextending their menu in pursuit of quantity rather than quality.

 Pho-N-Thai is sadly one of those more-N-more offenders.

Had they stuck to a core group of dishes at which they excel, and there are some amazing offerings in that category, I could recommend this tiny, family-owned eatery whole-heartedly. But with their confusing, long menu and spread-too-thin staff, cherry picking the great dishes and taking them take away might be the best way to enjoy what Pho-N-Thai has to offer.

Highlights

I don’t hesitate to say that Pho-N-Thai is a king of curries. They embrace the true meaning of curry as spiced sauce rather than purely spicy sauce and create rich and complex flavors. Green, red, yellow and Panang are all available, but I went for my oft-overlooked favorite: the Massamun (pork, chicken or tofu for $7.25 lunch/$8.25 dinner).

It was the Platonic ideal of Massamun in my opinion, a lightly sweet, pink sauce creamy with coconut milk over potatoes, onions and peanuts. The spicy heat only kicks in on the back end for a nice burn — if you order it spicy, that is, which I advise. 

Another Thai classic done right is the Drunken Noodles (pork, chicken or tofu for $6.99 /$7.99). The tender rice noodles were slick with a delicious sauce that’s suffused with oyster sauce yet not at all salty, light rather than cloying, comforting and satisfying. Both Thai dishes offer steak, shrimp or a combination for an upcharge.

Homemade always stands out, and such was the case with some appetizers, such as the Spring Rolls ($2 each). Shrimp, chicken and fresh basil show through the translucent roll of rice noodle, served with sweet fish sauce and peanuts. All too familiar with the flavor of corporately sourced crabmeat cheese wontons, I was indeed impressed with Pho-N-Thai’s version ($4.99 for six). Crisp and hot, they oozed with a moist paste of imitation crabmeat and cream cheese, dotted with chopped green onions.

Speaking of common, sweet and sour is popular with American palates, and Pho-N-Thai’s version ($6.99/$7.99) was surprising. Leaving its chicken or other protein unbreaded lightened up the meal and let the pineapple, celery, peppers and cucumber share the stage.

On the whole, prices are a great value for the amount of food, and lunch, dinner and weekend specials are almost insanely cheap, with meals available for under $5.

Drawbacks

Pho-N-Thai’s menu attempts to also be Pho-N-Vietnamese, Pho-N-Japanese and Pho-N-American. I assumed that most of their clientele completely ignores the “American” section — which includes gyros (Greek) and schnitzel (Austrian) — because it’s just too far afield. Granted.

However, when the Yakitori (from $1.99/skewer) is advertised in huge lettering on signage, I expect that to shine. What shined (literally) was the sticky sweet yet thin, basic teriyaki sauce that I actively tried to avoid when eating the speared chicken, which was grilled too crisp. The lunch special ($4.75 for two sticks) included rice, a salad of cabbage  with creamy dressing and an onion ring.

Also loudly proclaimed as a specialty, the Pad Thai (from $6.99 lunch/$7.99 dinner) fell flat. Underneath the incredible orangeness was a mountain of noodles, some sprouts, very little peanut flavor and a bit too much fish sauce.

Pho-N-Thai’s broth also leaves something to be desired. It’s thin and bland, both in the house soup served before meals and in entrees like the Pho Dac Biet aka Vietnamese beef noodle soup ($5.99-$6.99). The meat and various fresh topping were fine, but the broth needed doctoring (Sriracha and hoisin, for me) to bring out any flavor.

I would love to comment on the famed Thai ice tea, the dumplings and the steamed buns, but the kitchen was out.

Ambience

From the exterior, Pho-N-Thai looks like the convenience and liquor stores that share its block on Spruce Street, barred windows and all, but the interior thwarts expectations. The walls are painted a fresh burgundy and are hung with interesting Asian art work. Vividly patterned tablecloths decorate the tables. However, those tables are then covered in shiny plastic and preset with napkins and silver, giving it a cafeterial feel.

The dining room is sectioned in two parts that, while similar in appearance, put for-here diners on one side and people waiting on to-go orders on the other. Both are focused on the huge flat-screen TV in between, which plays constantly. Anthony Bourdain on the Travel Channel was fun to watch during my lunch, I have to admit, but I felt like I was in a waiting room rather than a restaurant.

Service

What service deficiencies I experienced were certainly unintentional, because all of the staff I interacted with were genuinely kind and strived to be helpful.

With at least three visible staff members in front and back of the house, they succeeded in providing timely and smooth service when the restaurant when was slow. Take away a staff member, add a few tables and/or throw in some to-go orders, and I languished at my table waiting for even my beverage and vacated tables sat uncleaned while I saw some bagged to-go orders go out the door.

Bonus: Call ahead

On the whole, I think those customers had the right way of things. I picked up a few dishes to-go, including the Drunken Noodles and Sweet and Sour. They were ready fast, on time and steaming hot, even after a short drive, and were of better quality than take-out closer to home.

When I next crave Thai, I’ll take the hint and while away a few minutes for take away watching TV like everyone else.

Spring rolls Photo by

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Massamun Photo by PHOTOS BY KATE JONUSKA

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Pad Thai Photo by

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