When it comes to late summer entertaining, my hands-down favorite dish for a crowd is whole grilled beef tenderloin. It’s hearty, bursting with flavor, but low in fat, plus it’s quick and easy and leaves the oven free for other dishes.

You can purchase a trimmed and tied tenderloin from a butcher, but it’s more economical to buy a whole tenderloin and break it down yourself. Look for a firm tenderloin with good, deep-red color. If it is in Cryovac (a thick, air-tight plastic bag), make sure the seal is tight and there is little blood in the package.

You will have to trim the roast of excess fat and remove the “chain” of meat that runs along its side (save it for kebabs). Next remove the “silver skin,” a thin membrane running down the length of the tenderloin. Simply slip a sharp knife horizontally under the membrane and cut it away.

To promote even cooking, tuck the tail of the tenderloin under and tie the roast with kitchen string every 2 inches. Season the meat with your favorite spices up to a couple of hours before cooking to allow the flavor to develop. A good sear from a hot grill adds that full-bodied flavor we love.

Prepare the grill by cleaning the grate a wire brush and oiling it. Roll a few pieces of paper towel into a very tight roll, dip into vegetable oil with tongs and rub across the grate to prevent the tenderloin from sticking. Heat the grill with the grate as close as possible to the fire. Charcoal should be white; gas grills should be heated for at least 20 minutes with the lid closed.

Allow the tenderloin to rest 10 to 15 minutes before serving so the juices don’t run when the meat is sliced.

Serve this with a sauce made by combining ¾ cup sour cream, 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish, 2 teaspoons olive oil and freshly ground pepper.1 whole filet of beef, 4 to 5 pounds

GRILLED WHOLE TENDERLOIN—Yield: 10-15 servings

1 whole filet of beef, 4 to 5 pounds6 garlic cloves, minced2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary2 teaspoons each kosher salt and freshly ground pepper}1/3 cup olive oil

Procedure:1. Remove tenderloin from refrigerator about 45 minutes before cooking. Heat grill to high. Clean, trim and tie tenderloin.2. Combine garlic, rosemary, salt, pepper and olive oil in small bowl; mix well. Rub mixture all over tenderloin.3. Grill the filet on all sides until cooked to your liking (130 degrees for medium rare). Let meat sit, covered loosely with foil, 10-15 minutes before slicing.4. Serve with Horseradish Cream: Combine 3/4 cup sour cream, 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish, 2 teaspoons olive oil and freshly ground pepper.

Nutrition data per each of 10 servings: 343 calories (51 percent from fat), 19 g fat (5.4 g saturated, 10 g monounsaturated), 121 mg cholesterol, 40.3 g protein, 0.6 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 496 mg sodium.

Adapted from “Just Grill This!” by Sam Zien