Finger pushing
[location-weather id="1320728"]


GO! DINING REVIEW: Beer Geek Headquarters

A message scrawled across the top of a massive chalkboard on the back wall of the Pikes Peak Brewing Co. tasting room in Monument reads “Beer geek notes.”

Below, rows and columns of numbers denote the original gravity, final gravity, alcohol by volume, international bitterness unit estimate and notes on the blend of hops and malt for each of a half-dozen or so brews made on-site.

It is that kind of place.

You don’t need to know or care that the Belgian blonde uses Styrian and Willamette hops, or that the Devil’s Head Red clocks in at 38.5 IBUs to enjoy these crisp, well-made beers, but if you are into that, you’ll feel right at home.

Pikes Peak, which opened in early June, is the work of local computer salesman and self-professed beer geek Chris Wright, a studious beer drinker and home brewer who, a few years ago, created the beer drinkers journal — a book where beer explorers could write notes on the brews they’ve surveyed.

Often, microbrew places either have great beer and lousy food or the other way around. Pikes Peak’s limited menu strikes a fairly good balance.

The easy-to-miss strip mall spot (look for the grain silo) is attractively done up inside with a long bar, several small tables, and a few comfy leather chairs ranged around a stone fireplace. Out the back door is a fairly nice patio, although, like most of Monument, it is a little too close to the interstate.

The menu is not the star here. It consists of a few sandwiches and soups, good for taking the edge off a few pints, but not reason enough for a visit on their own. But, in the spectrum of beer geek breweries of the region, it ranks well above Bristol Brewing Co.’s free bowls of pretzels (which just barely sneak past the Colorado law requiring taverns to serve light snacks) and slightly above Bierwerks’ meat-and-cheese plates.

The headliner, though, is the beer. The Devil’s Head Red Ale, brimming with fresh hops, packs a wallop with 7.2 percent alcohol, but manages to still be refreshing and well-balanced. The brewery also serves a Belgian Blonde, a mild, hoppy wheat, and a dark, toasty stout, as well as a seasonal or two and guest beers from other local brewers.

Right now, the seasonal is a mild British brown ale — somewhat shocking at first because of its lack of hops bite, but complex in its subtle mix of various malts.

Bottom line, the brewer knows what he is doing and has created a pleasant place to kick back a few pints.

While you are there, of course, you should probably have some food. You can get a very nice cup of green chili ($4), thick with chunks of mild pork, bits of bacon, a few flecks of tomato and plentiful chunks of green chili. I washed it down with a light, cool, slightly sour Belgian blonde ($4.50) that was the perfect complement for the fiery spice.

Almost as good is the beer-cheese soup ($4), which also has a fair number of green chilies and a scattered dice of tomato, but is thick and creamy, spiked with toasty stout.

Sandwiches are a bit less exciting. The most promising one, the pulled pork ($8), is unfortunately bland. Instead of being slow-smoked, it seems to be baked entirely without spices. It is then served with an equally dull barbecuelike sauce that a friend described as tasting like “a can of baked beans without the beans.”

It might make more sense for this tiny kitchen to buy pulled pork from one of the many great smokers in town daily and reheat it.

That is essentially what they do with the pretzel sticks ($4). They are big, bready wands from Wimberger’s bakery, and they are very good. Unfortunately, they are also a true Old World bread, designed to be eaten fresh a few hours after baking. Here (and at Bierwerks) they appear to sit too long and the flecks of salt on the pretzel crust turn it wrinkly and soft — though the addition of mustard made with the brewery’s very good red ale almost makes up for this.

The turkey and ham Panini ($8), which are pressed on a small grill on the back counter, are dependable but far from memorable.

The best choice for leisurely drinkers is probably the meat-and-cheese plate ($10) with such tidbits as salami rosa, chèvre goat cheese, hot pickles and gouda slices ranged around baguette rounds. It is easy to share and goes well with a number of beer styles.

The food here is still utilitarian, and that may be just fine. The beer is the real point. But to bring in the foodies, the beer geek needs a menu geek to help him come up with some distinctive but simple offerings. 

German Chocolate Stout Mini Cake is not only made with stout beer, but comes with a side of stout beer to drink at the Pikes Peak Brewing Company. Photo by The Gazette/Jerilee Bennett

Tags

Ad block goes here

Sponsored Content