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Sweet corn: A salute to the kernel

Ask any farmer or backyard gardener about fresh corn and they’ll tell you the best way to cook it.

Put a pot of water on to boil before you run out to the garden, pick the corn, shuck it on the way back to the house, and plunge it into the boiling water.

Since most of us don’t have backyard crops, we must buy corn at the farmers market or grocery store. We’ll take it anywhere we can get it during July and August.

Here are some suggestions on how to select, store and prepare fresh corn, a good source of fiber and B vitamins.

SELECTION• Look for ears with green husks, moist stems and silk ends that are free of decay. Kernels should be small, tender, plump and milky when pierced, and they should fill up all the spaces in the rows.

STORAGE• Keep unshucked fresh corn in the refrigerator until ready to use, wrapped in damp paper towels and placed in a plastic bag. Typical shelf life is four to six days.

PREPARATION• To steam: Remove husks and silks. Trim stem ends. Stand ears in a tall pot with 1 inch of water. Cover with a tight- fitting lid and steam for 5 minutes.• To microwave: Place ears of corn, still in husks, in a single layer in the microwave. Microwave on high for 2 minutes, turning the ears halfway through cooking time. Allow corn to rest several minutes before removing the husks and silks.• To boil: Remove husks and silks. Trim stem ends. Carefully place ears in large pot of boiling water. Cook 2 to 4 minutes, or until the kernels are tender.Corn tastes even better when it has a smoky flavor from the grill. Here’s how to grill corn in the husk from Fine Cooking.• Peel away the outer layers of husk. If the ears have many layers, peel off the first few, leaving a few layers for protection but allowing the kernels to caramelize a little.• Put the corn on the grill as soon as the initial flames from the charcoal die down and the coals are still red-hot. Corn protected by its husk is very forgiving, so if a few flames lick the ears and light the husks, don’t worry. Take care, however, not to crowd the grill, which would choke off too much air to the coals.• Grill the corn, turning often, until the first layer of husk is charred completely. Depending on your fire, this could take 5 to 10 minutes. You can push the corn to a cooler spot if you’re grilling other things for your meal, or transfer the grilled corn to a platter and keep it warm in the charred husks until serving.• Just before serving, peel back the husk and brown the kernels on the grill, turning the corn frequently. You don’t need to oil the corn for grilling directly like this, as it takes only a minute or so for it to develop a roasty color and a little additional smoke flavor. But if the corn spends too long on the grill without the protection of the husk, the kernels will become dry and a bit chewy.• To remove the corn from its husk, cut the stem end up to the bottom of the ear and peel back the husks and silk. You might need to brush away burnt silks. Now just dress the corn as you like: butter, olive oil, salt.

SMOKY CORN AND JALAPEÑO DIP−Yield: 6 servings

2 large ears of corn, husks on2 jalapeño peppers1/2 cup each mayonnaise and sour cream1/2 cup each grated cheddar and pepper jack cheese1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to tastePotato chips or tortilla chips

Procedure:1. Set grill to medium-high heat. Grill corn with husks on 20 minutes, rotating every 5 minutes, until outsides are lightly charred. During last 5 minutes, grill jalapeño peppers until lightly blackened.2. Remove husks and silks from corn, and cut kernels off cob. Seed and mince jalapeño peppers, reserving seeds if more heat is desired.3. In large bowl, mix corn, jalapeño, mayonnaise, sour cream and cheeses until well combined. Add smoked paprika and kosher salt. Taste for seasoning and adjust, if desired.4. Chill until ready to use. Serve with classic potato chips or tortilla chips.

www.Thekitchn.com

FRESH CORN SALAD−Yield: 6 servings

3/4 cup light sour cream1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt3 cups fresh corn kernels (about 5 ears)1 cup each finely chopped red bell pepper and green onion

Procedure:1. Combine first 3 ingredients in large bowl, stirring with whisk. Add remaining ingredients, stirring to combine.2. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours before serving.

Cooking Light magazine

SUMMER CORN CAKES WITH CHOPPED TOMATO AND AVOCADO SALSA—Yield: About 1 dozen

CORN CAKES3 ears corn, shucked1 cup all-purpose flour1/2 cup yellow cornmeal1/4 cup diced red onion1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh basil1 teaspoon baking powder1/2 teaspoon baking sodaSea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste2 large eggs, lightly beaten2 tablespoons well-shaken buttermilk2 tablespoons unsalted butter, meltedCanola oil, for frying

SALSA1 large tomato, cored and chopped1 scallion, trimmed and minced1/2 jalapeño pepper, cored, seeded and diced1 tablespoon each chopped fresh cilantro and fresh basil1 garlic clove, mincedJuice of 1/2 lime1 1/2 teaspoons each extra-virgin olive oil and white-wine vinegarSea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste1 avocado, peeled, pitted and diced

Procedure:1. For corn cakes: Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Line baking sheet with brown paper bag.2. Cut corn from cobs into large bowl and scrape stripped cobs with back of knife (or a spoon) to release juices into bowl.3. Place 2 cups corn kernels in food processor; pulse several times, until corn is slightly puréed but still chunky. Scrape into bowl with remaining corn kernels. Add flour, cornmeal, onion, basil, baking powder, baking soda, salt and pepper to corn. Stir to mix. Add eggs, buttermilk and butter, and stir just to combine.4. Place large skillet over medium heat, add just enough canola oil to barely cover bottom, and heat until sizzling-hot. Scoop batter into skillet, 1 heaping tablespoon at a time. Cook in batches of 4-5 to avoid overcrowding. Fry cakes 1-2 minutes per side, until golden brown. Drain on lined baking sheet, and place in oven to keep warm while cooking remaining corn cakes.5. For salsa: Mix tomato, scallion, jalapeño, cilantro, basil, garlic, lime juice, olive oil, vinegar, and salt and black pepper in bowl. Refrigerate in airtight container until ready to serve, up to 2 days. Just before serving, add avocado, and mix gently.6. Serve corn cakes warm, topped with a heap of chopped tomato and avocado salsa.

Sara Foster’s Southern Kitchen

FRESH CORN AND RED PEPPER TAMALES—Yield: About 2 dozen

8 ears corn (enough for 24 corn husks and 1 1/2 cups fresh corn kernels)1/2 cup diced red bell pepper1/2 cup each sour cream and milk3 tablespoons cornmeal1/2 teaspoon each baking powder, salt and cayenne pepperSour cream and paprika, for garnish

Procedure:1. Remove husks from corn, saving large inner ones and discarding outer and small inside husks (you’ll need 3 husks for each tamale). In large bowl, cover husks with hot water and leave to soak.2. With sharp knife, over large bowl, remove corn kernels from cobs, saving juices. You should have about 1 1/2 cups corn. Add red pepper, sour cream, milk, cornmeal, baking powder, salt and cayenne; stir to mix.3. Drain husks thoroughly in colander and pat dry with paper towels. Place about 1/4 cup corn filling onto 1 husk and spread it slightly lengthwise. Bring top and bottom ends to center, overlapping slightly. Wrap another husk around it lengthwise, forming a cylindrical shape. Use one more husk to seal and secure the shape by wrapping the opposite way. Using butcher’s twine, tie securely crosswise and make a knot.4. Place tamales in steamer over simmering water; steam 1 hour. Remove with slotted spatula. Cut strings and remove. Cool slightly, then top with a dollop of sour cream and a drift of paprika before serving.

Food Network

Fresh corn on the cob is in season now, and available at local farmers markets. Photo by KONGSKY

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