The term low-fat ice cream is somewhat of an oxymoron. After all, it’s in large part the butterfat in cream and whole milk that gives the frozen treat its luxurious texture and taste.

Apart from the real deal — made using a custard of cream, egg yolks and lots of sugar — there are plenty of scoopable frozen treats available that have a more virtuous nutritional profile along with a pleasing texture, but it’s often because they are made with thickeners and stabilizers whose names defy pronunciation.

But the arrival of small ice cream makers that fit in your freezer means making a healthier frozen dessert with wholesome ingredients has gotten a lot easier.

This Brown Sugar and Toasted Almond Ice Cream contains no cream, but is plenty creamy.

For the custard we’ve used low-fat milk, a bit of unflavored gelatin for stability and nonfat evaporated milk, which has the intense dairy taste that you might otherwise only get from cream or whole milk. You wouldn’t want to drink this stuff on its own, but in the blend of an ice cream it adds just the right flavor.

We’ve kept egg yolks in our recipe (though not as many as in a full-fat ice cream) because of their unsurpassed ability to produce a smooth texture.

This simple custard can be used as the base for almost any flavor you like. Here, we’ve sweetened it with mellow-tasting brown sugar plus a dash of amaretto. But if you like, you can use regular table sugar along with a puree of your favorite fruit, or even a chocolate malt powder.

For a blend-in, we’ve added toasted almonds at the end so they don’t get too pulverized while the ice cream is mixing. If you like, you can add a handful of bittersweet chocolate chips, as well.

BROWN SUGAR & TOASTED ALMOND ICE CREAM —Yield: 8 servings

1 1/2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin2 1/2 cups low-fat milk, divided3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar1/2 teaspoon cinnamon3 large egg yolks1 (12-ounce) can nonfat evaporated milk1 tablespoon amaretto liqueur or rum1/2 cup chopped almonds

Procedure:1. In small bowl, sprinkle gelatin over 1 tablespoon water. Let stand while you make base for ice cream.2. In large saucepan, stir together 1 1/2 cups milk, brown sugar and cinnamon. Set milk mixture over medium heat, stirring often, until steaming.3. In medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks and evaporated milk. Gradually pour in hot milk mixture, whisking until blended. Return mixture to pan and cook over medium heat, stirring with wooden spoon, until back of spoon is lightly coated, 3-5 minutes. Mixture should reach 165 degrees. Do not bring to boil or custard will curdle.4. Strain custard through fine-mesh sieve into large bowl (preferably stainless steel). Add softened gelatin and whisk until melted. Whisk in remaining 1 cup milk and amaretto (or rum). Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours, or overnight.5. In small dry skillet over medium-low heat, toast almonds, stirring constantly, until fragrant and lightly browned, 2-4 minutes. Set aside to cool completely.6. Once cool, whisk ice cream mixture and pour into canister of an ice cream maker. Freeze according to manufacturer’s directions. Transfer ice cream to a container, stir in toasted almonds, cover with plastic wrap gently pressed into the surface and freeze until firm.

Nutrition data per serving: 211 calories; 53 calories from fat (25 percent of total calories); 6 g fat (1 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 85 mg cholesterol; 31 g carbohydrate; 9 g protein; 1 g fiber; 99 mg sodium.

Adapted from EatingWell magazine

This ice cream recipe contains no cream, but is plenty creamy. Photo by THE ASSOCIATED PRESS