A recent visit to Kura Japanese Restaurant was a study in contrasts. At one table, six elderly Japanese women shared a vibrant spread of traditional, subtle, fish-forward nigiri sushi, then moved on to big, steaming bowls of su udon — an ancient broth of seaweed and fish flakes swimming with thick noodles.

At the next table, three contemporary American office workers with more chin than neck tucked into those over-the-top, deep-fried, American-style rolls that come packed with krab salad, avocado and cream cheese, covered with more fish, maybe some hot sauce, and doused in a mayonnaise-based sauce.

And here is the thing: Both tables seemed to be enjoying themselves thoroughly.

Kura, a fixture in Briargate for five years, has long been a local favorite. It was started by former Jun server Song Brinck as a simple shopping center sushi place and has gradually expended its menu and its dining room to include ornate rolls and beautifully composed entrees. This winter it doubled in size and added teppanyaki. Now Kura does everything “Japanese,” traditional and American, and does it quite well.

Lovers of traditional sushi will find an enticing roster of fishes. Tuna, freshwater eel, salmon and other standards make an appearance, but so do subtle and velvety red snapper, halibut, sea eel and bracingly briny striped bass.

The fish is fresh and etherial. Species like yellowtail, which can turn funky in a flash, here taste clean with a hint of mineral from the sea.

The chefs working the bar, who yell hello when you walk in, are deft with a knife. Nigiri sushi ($3.50-$7 for two pieces) is cut ribbon thin, long and wide. It drapes over light, thumb-size balls of rice like heavy, expensive curtains, hiding them entirely.

Good fish is served mostly unadorned. Where other places might add a thumbnail sliver of lemon to the top off a buttery slice of salmon, Kura leaves it on the side. This is enough to send real fish fans to heaven. But why stop there?

The rolls ($5-$16) are also excellent. They range from the simple standards up to ungainly concoctions like the deep-fried Tiger roll ($9), stuffed with jalapeños, chopped tuna in a spicy sauce and cream cheese, and topped with a sweet eel sauce. (Just try to eat it with chopsticks.)

There are even rolls with sweet chicken for those who fear fish flesh.

Other traditional dishes are done well. A simple set of chicken teriyaki skewers ($6) are moist and sport a slight char. They laze in a mirin-soy glaze that sidesteps the cloying sweetness of most teriyakis.I followed the Japanese ladies’ lead, ordering the su udon ($8), and found a new favorite.

The lovely amber broth, made from boiling dried fish flakes with kelp, then splashing in soy sauce and mirin, is a complex delight, both light and devilishly rich, with the unmistakable taste of the sea. Among the soup’s tangle of thick, tender udon noodles float a few slices of kamaboko, a tender, cured fish cake — the hot dog of the sea. If you love sushi but struggle to get out of the restaurant without breaking the bank, su udon is a great way to fill up cheap after the fish.

Lunch is also a good time to save some coin. You can get soup, salad and two rolls from a limited menu for $10.

On the other hand, if you are in the mood to spend money, Kura offers some surprisingly sophisticated options. The moist, perfect black cod ($13) comes in an ebony glaze of miso and soy. The portion is small, but the bitter, almost burnt glaze is a perfect foil to the light, delicate fish. On the side, Kura offers a medley of roasted vegetables including purple cauliflower and thin slices of a sweet Japanese winter squash called kabocha that could put the vegetable medley at many local fine dining places to shame.

The nikumaki ($16) has the same excellent veggies carefully arranged on a vast white plate with three bundles made by wrapping just-blanched asparagus with thin sheets of seasoned steak. The bundles rest in a glossy pool that looks like a simple, repurposed teriyaki sauce but is actually a delicate orange reduction. This plate, too, could stand up to local fine-dining options, and for a fraction of the price.

For those who want a show with their meal, the restaurant does teppanyaki with all the accompanying flying pepper shakers and spinning spatulas of the chef. We skipped it.

Service here on each visit was excellent: Friendly and competent but also stealthy. The newly renovated dining room is pleasant and contemporary. The wine and sake lists are above average. In short, Kura is easily in the hunt for best Japanese in town.

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