The Big Apple has a big sandwich culture, from the deli fare of the lower East Side to the tea sandwiches of the upper. Now Sara Reistad-Long and Jean Tang have teamed up with Gotham’s glitziest chefs to create the definitive guide to the humble and not-so-humble sandwich.

You won’t find any PBJs or pastrami in “The Big New York Sandwich Book” (Running Press, 272 pp., $23). Instead, you’ll find recipes for such varied offerings as Gramercy Tavern’s Piedmontese and Mario Batali’s Mozzarella in Corozza. The book’s stories and commentary are fun, and the ingredients are eclectic, to say the least — including lentils and sheep’s milk cheese, forest mushrooms and salted caramel — although not all (thank heavens) on the same plate.

The result is 99 very intriguing creations of every variety, from rustic to haute.

Batali, for example, straddles the two with, he says, “grilled cheese sammies, elevated to an art.”

Here’s a taste to whet your appetite:

MOZZARELLA IN COROZZA—Yield: 4 servings

8 slices American-style sandwich bread, crusts removed1 pound fresh mozzarella di bufala, cut into four 4-by-3-inch chunks4 eggs3 egg yolks1 cup whole milk1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme1 teaspoon kosher salt2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Procedure:1. Top each of 4 slices bread with a piece of mozzarella. Cover with remaining bread to form sandwiches. Trim bread to within 1/4 inch of cheese.2. In wide shallow bowl, whisk eggs with yolks. Add milk, thyme and salt and whisk well. Dip sandwiches into egg mixture one by one to coat.3. To large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, add 1 tablespoon oil and wait until it’s smoking. Add 1 tablespoon butter and cook until sizzling subsides. Place 2 sandwiches in pan and cook slowly until golden brown on the first side, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook the other side for 2 minutes. Remove the sandwiches and set aside in a warm oven. Repeat with remaining oil, butter and sandwiches.4. Serve immediately.

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