Not so long ago little Mexican-immigrant restaurants like Puerto Palomas were a rare thing in Colorado Springs. Finding an authentic carne asada taco sprinkled with cilantro and wrapped in twin sheets of warm corn tortillas was a feat. A plate of eggs with slow-stewed machaca was almost unheard of.

Not anymore.

New census numbers show that the number of Mexican immigrants in El Paso County has doubled in the last decade to more than 60,000, and they have brought with them a whole Mexican restaurant subgenre of taco trucks, strip-mall taquerias and humble family places serving the beloved dishes of home.

Puerto Palomas receives some high marks in this department, but, given the competition, it hardly takes the title.

The little restaurant opened in March in a somewhat dingy spot on Union Boulevard. Puerto Palomas was named by owner Carlos Baeza after his tiny hometown on the border.

Diners can find a simple scattering of Mexican breakfast egg dishes, burritos, tacos and combo plates, as well as traditional entrees like carnitas and shrimp in spicy chipotle.

Palomas also has the startling “El Gordo Burrito” — a 5-pound behemoth filled with almost everything in the kitchen. Eat it in 30 minutes and not only do you get the $33 burrito free, but you get your photo on the wall of fame. As an added bonus, Memorial Hospital is just blocks away. (On our most recent visit, the wall of fame was blank.)

Much of the food is quite good. Burritos here ($6-$11) are generous and well-priced, and all come with rice, sour cream and guacamole on the side. The guac is fresh, rich and enticingly simple. Ripe avocado takes the main stage with just a few supporting riffs of salt, lime and cilantro. Someone in the kitchen knows what he or she is doing.

Beans and rice — a part of almost every plate — don’t suffer from too much oil and salt, as is often the case at other places. And the rich nuttiness of the beans shows they are made from scratch.

A few dishes show the influence of living right next to the U.S. There are Mexican hot wings ($7), Mexican hot dogs ($7) and the Juarez Burger ($8). That last one is a colossal mash-up of lipids from both sides of the border that includes a burger patty, ham, mild, melted white cheese, bacon, avocado, mayo and a hot dog sliced lengthwise. The only way to make it worse for you would be to deep fry the whole thing in hog fat.

I ordered it on a dare, and it’s not bad, though after a few bites I eighty-sixed the hot dog and was happy it was gone.

Many classic dishes here shine. A carne asada taco ($2) is generously stuffed with chopped skirt steak that arrives hot and fresh and not too greasy. The flurry of pico de gallo on top is fresh, too, though a little too heavy with sharp white onion.

An entree version of that skirt steak, grilled and charred and sizzling hot, served with fresh, cool lime to squeeze over the top, ($12) is terrific.

An enchilada on a combo plate ($6.50) came cloaked in a real, unadorned chili rojo, red as a garnet and slightly coarse from whole dried chilies ground and reconstituted by hand. It is rich and complex and bitter — a perfect escort for the sweet and steamy, mild-cheese enchilada beneath.

Other simple dishes fail.

A chile relleno sharing the plate with the enchilada was soggy and too full of gooey cheese to let the chili flavor play any part. Fries that came with the Juarez Burger were cooked at too-low a temperature and came out oily and underdone. A plate of carnitas ($11) — pork roast slow-braised in simmering spices and its own juices until rich and tender — arrived instead as vaguely seasoned pork loin cooked (possibly reheated) until dry, leathery and bland.

For anyone headed to Palomas, the standard lunch and breakfast fare is dependable. The service is friendly and fast. If you want a cheap, good burrito, it is a fine choice. But Palomas fails to distinguish itself with any unusual specialties. There are no black or green moles or other hard-to-find dishes that could separate it from the pack.

Ten years ago, authenticity in itself might have been enough to guarantee success. Not anymore.

Puerto Palomas

**

Address: 208 N. Union Blvd.

Phone:578-7845

Hours:8:30 a.m.-8 p.m. daily

Entrees:$5-$13

Vegetarian: Yes

Alcohol: No

Credit cards: Yes

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