It’s official: Quinoa has achieved cult status. The ancient Incan grain has captured the public’s imagination with its mix of nutritional superpowers, delicious flavor and rainbow colors, popping up on trendy restaurant menus and holistic-health websites alike.

With all nine essential amino acids, it’s a complete protein — like meat — which makes it the Holy Grail of the vegetarian world. And, it’s gluten-free.

The only question is whether it grows magic beanstalks, too. And how best to cook the sometimes tricky grain.

“It has an incredible cult following,” says Alex Postman, editor-in-chief for Martha Stewart’s Whole Living magazine and website, where quinoa is one of the top search terms. “It’s so nutritionally packed. But the first time I cooked it, I said, ‘What is up with this?’ I was not a quinoa connoisseur.”

That’s because there are a few small, but simple tricks for turning that bag of tiny seeds into a gustatory wunderkind. First, quinoa needs to be rinsed before use, to eliminate the bitter coating that surrounds each seed. Overcook it or use too much water, and quinoa loses its marvelous, fluffy texture. And then there’s the color — yes, black quinoa cooks into inky hues and red stays richly vibrant. That can be a perk or a liability.

Postman’s first quinoa escapade resulted in a terminally soggy side dish — and instead of ricelike appeal, her red quinoa was unexpectedly assertive in flavor. The darker the color, she says, the nuttier the taste.

“It comes in a spectrum of colors, from white to pink, orange and black. I would advise first-timers to start with the lighter types, because those are a little blander,” she says.

That blandness makes quinoa a perfect palette for creation.

“I’ve come to love it,” says Postman. “It’s so versatile. You can add pesto or a vinaigrette or leftover roasted veggies. It’s a really great vehicle for flavor.”

Professional chefs use quinoa in a wide range of ways. Charlie Ayers, the former Google chef who runs Palo Alto’s Calafia Cafe, uses quinoa in soups, stuffing and salads. It makes a particularly nice pilaf, too, he says.

Tyler Florence tosses fluffy red quinoa into a salad of beets, avocado and fuyu persimmon at his new Napa restaurant, Rotisserie and Wine. Rick Hackett, executive chef at Bocanova, the Pan-Pacific restaurant in Oakland, Calif.’s Jack London Square, combines the grain with shrimp, roasted beets and orange vinaigrette. And at El Hueco, a Peruvian restaurant in Redwood City, Calif., quinoa — which they call the “mother grain of the Incas” — is a key ingredient in vegetarian and seafood entrees.

But don’t stop there, says Postman.

“I have a good friend who has it for breakfast every day,” she says. “She mixes it with honey or agave syrup and tosses on raisins and almond slivers. And quinoa clusters are a great, healthy snack.”

The apricot- and nut-filled quinoa clusters in Postman’s new cookbook, “Power Foods: 150 Delicious Recipes with the 38 Healthiest Ingredients,” make a perfect snack that’s portable, packable and good for you. The recipe is below.

The lowdownWe may call quinoa — pronounced KEEN-wah — a grain, but it’s really the seed of the South American goosefoot plant. The gluten-free seeds are high in protein, and quinoa’s amino acid profile is comparable to casein, the complete protein found in milk, according to the United Nations’ Food and Agricultural Organization.

Quinoa is easy to digest and quick to prepare, but the seeds, which are coated with saponin, must be rinsed before cooking to remove bitterness, says the America’s Test Kitchen crew.

Some cooks prefer to soak the seeds for a few minutes, before placing them in a fine-meshed sieve under running water. Dry the kernels on a kitchen towel before proceeding. Some recipes also suggest toasting the seeds in a dry, hot saucepan for a few minutes until the water evaporates and the quinoa becomes aromatic, before adding simmering stock to cook.

Then, use the same proportions you would with plain white rice, a 1-to-2 ratio of grain to water or stock. Bring it to a boil and simmer it, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat source, then leave the lid on for a few minutes more — the America’s Test Kitchen staff, which loves the grain for its “addictive crunch,” suggests placing a clean dish towel over the top of the pot and replacing the lid on top for that final steaming. Then, fluff the grains with a fork, as you would couscous. The kernels should be translucent and fluffy, with small threads.

QUINOA, APRICOT AND NUT CLUSTERS—Yield: 20 clusters

1 1/2 cups water3/4 cup white quinoa, rinsed and drained1 1/2 cups old-fashioned rolled oats (not instant)1/2 cup raw shelled sunflower seeds1/2 cup raw shelled pistachios, coarsely chopped1 cup unsulfured, dried apricots, thinly sliced1/4 cup sugar1/2 teaspoon coarse salt1/4 cup honey2 tablespoons canola or safflower oil1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla2 large eggs, plus 1 egg white, lightly beatenVegetable oil cooking spray

Procedure:1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bring water to boil in small saucepan. Add quinoa; return to boil. Stir once; cover and reduce heat to simmer. Cook until quinoa is slightly underdone and has absorbed most of the liquid, 12 minutes. With slotted spoon, transfer quinoa to rimmed baking sheet. Bake, fluffing with fork occasionally, until pale golden, 30-35 minutes. Transfer to large bowl; let cool.2. Spread oats evenly on baking sheet; bake, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 15 minutes. Add oats to quinoa. Spread seeds on baking sheet and bake, stirring occasionally, until lightly toasted, 7 minutes. Add to quinoa; let cool. Reduce oven temperature to 300 degrees.3. Toss nuts, apricots, sugar and salt with quinoa mixture. Mix honey, oil and vanilla into eggs; stir into quinoa mixture.4. Line rimless baking sheet with parchment paper; lightly coat with cooking spray. For each cluster, place 1/4 cup mixture onto sheet, spacing 3 inches apart. Flatten to 1/4-inch thick. Bake, rotating sheet halfway through, until crisp, about 25 minutes.5. Let cool completely on wire rack. Store loosely covered with aluminum foil up to 2 days.

Nutrition data per 2-cluster serving: 329 calories, 10.6 g fat (3.4 g saturated), 42 mg cholesterol, 49 g carbohydrates, 10 g protein, 5 g fiber, 139 mg sodium.

“Power Foods” by the editors of Whole Living Magazine

QUINOA PILAF WITH LEMON AND THYME—Yield: 6 servings

1 onion, minced1 teaspoon olive oilSalt and pepper1 1/2 cups quinoa, rinsed and dried on a towel1 1/4 cups low-sodium chicken broth1 teaspoon grated lemon zest1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley, basil, cilantro or scallions

Procedure:1. Combine onion, oil and 1/4 teaspoon salt in large saucepan. Cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, 8-10 minutes.2. Stir in quinoa, increase heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until quinoa is lightly toasted and aromatic, about 5 minutes. Stir in broth, lemon zest and thyme; bring to simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer until quinoa is transparent and tender, 16-18 minutes.3. Remove pot from the heat, lay clean, folded kitchen towel across top of pot and replace lid. Let sit 10 minutes, then fluff quinoa with fork. Stir in lemon juice and fresh parsley or herbs. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.

Nutrition data per 3/4 cup serving: 170 calories, 3.5 g fat (0 saturated), 0 mg cholesterol, 30 g carbohydrates, 6 g protein, 4 g fiber, 220 mg sodium.]

“America’s Test Kitchen’s Healthy Family Cookbook” by America’s Test Kitchen

Qinoa, Apricot and Nut Clusters. Photo by MCCLATCHY

MARK DuFRENE

Quinoa Pilaf with Lemon and Thyme. Photo by MCCLATCHY

MARK DuFRENE