Fighting my way through traffic on Powers Boulevard the other day, on my way to the new location of Jose Muldoon’s, I wasn’t sure what to expect.

True, the original Jose’s, which opened downtown in 1974, has thrived for decades by serving up dependable, mid-priced Tex-Mex plates washed down with a generous happy hour. But what thrives downtown doesn’t always play on Powers. Any number of downtown favorites (La Baguette, Josh and Johns, Democrats) have flopped when they tried to venture out of the city’s old core. And Powers is a shark tank of chains where, too often, independent ventures are soon devoured.

Palapa’s, the high-end fish joint that occupied the space now home to the new Jose’s, is a case in point. It was run by well-respected downtown and west-side chefs. And it closed in seven months.

I was pondering this and dodging the crazy drivers on Powers when my phone rang. It was a friend meeting me at Jose’s.

“It’s packed,” she said. “It’s going to be a half-hour wait.”

She was right. When I walked in a few minutes later, the place was slammed with all kinds of folks: young families, empty nesters, and clutches of bachelors feeding on beer, nachos and the sports TVs above the bar. And this was a weeknight!

The new Jose’s seems to be not just meeting downtown performance but running it down like a texting Hummer driver.

And there is good reason. Concept Restaurants — the company that owns Jose’s and four other local eateries — has done an extreme makeover of the building. The restaurant is divided into a handful of small adobe rooms, some with fireplaces, that give it a cozy, festive feel. The service is prompt and went beyond normal expectations. (On one visit, crayons were waiting at the table when a toddler joined us. On another, the server ran out into the parking lot when she noticed I’d left my phone on the table.)

As for the menu, there is a lot to like but little to love. It’s mid-priced and mid-quality. A step above On The Border, but not a big one. It’s the kind of place where the plates arrive too hot to touch and are packed rim to rim with Spanish rice, refried beans, bubbling cheese and the other stuff you’d expect from middle-American Mexican.

On the plus side, Jose’s offers New Mexico-style sauces you don’t usually see at chains. Take the Pollo Topolbampo ($11) — basically a shredded chicken burrito packed with cheese and topped with guacamole and sour cream. The chicken is well-seasoned, and there is a lot of it. The guacamole tastes handmade and has the right mix of onion and garlic. And the whole thing comes doused in green chili AND red chili. That two-tone garnish rarely makes it out of New Mexico. And it works.

The green is mild and chunky with pork (chiliheads will want to ask for the better and hotter “mean green”). The red is smooth and earthy, packed with the good flavor of mild ground red chilies. It had too much salt the night I visited, but still stands out among red chilli sauces in this town.

Both sauces are just as good over dependable enchiladas ($10).

The chiles rellenos here ($10), which are some of the best in town, also pay homage to New Mexico. Jose’s uses long, slender Anaheim chilies instead of the fat, mild Poblanos favored by Old Mexico, and coats them in a crisp batter that is not the least bit eggy. They are crunchy, spicy and not overstuffed with cheese.

The menu also boasts a few unusual items. Among the list of standard sizzling fajitas ($9-$15)  is grilled buffalo — slightly charred on the outside and deeply pink in the middle. The meat is heavily marinated but tasty enough, especially on a taco plate ($8.75).

Less successful is the cabo mahi mahi ($15.50) — one of the most expensive dishes on the menu and also the smallest. A well-cooked but diminutive slice of grilled fish with mango salsa comes perched atop a small tuffet of rice. The menu says it comes with spiced, grilled vegetables, but the few veggies amount to little more than a decorative garnish. It is a nice healthy option but priced to high for what you get.

The big menu has the requisite kids’ options, burgers and salads to keep everyone happy. Daily dinner and lunch specials, and good happy hour deals aim to please.

Ultimately, Jose’s is a success. It may not be the best Mexican in town, but if you want great service, a fun setting and a menu that will make the whole family happy, it’s tough to beat.

A few years ago I reviewed Jose’s downtown, and it seemed dull and out-of-date. But a venue change has also changed my perspective. On Powers, it seems like exactly what folks are looking for.

JOSE MULDOON’S3 STARS out of 5(Powers powerhouse)Address: 5710 S. Carefree CirclePhone: 574-5673Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays; 10 a.m.-10 p.m. SundaysEntrees: $8-$17Vegetarian: PlentyAlcohol: Full barCredit cards: Yes, but no checks

Diners stopped in for lunch at the new Jose Muldoon’s, at Powers Boulevard and South Carefree Circle. The new location seems to be outperforming the longtime downtown location. Photo by MARK REIS, THE GAZETTE