Reach for the mustard and mayonnaise when broiling or baking fish. These two basic condiments provide a subtle flavor boost while protecting delicate fish from toughening or drying out.

Simply spoon roughly equal portions of mayo and mustard in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle in some chopped herbs, fresh or dried. Stir well. Slather the mixture onto the fish, covering any exposed flesh. Cook.

I particularly like this mustard-mayo combo with salmon or swordfish. Given the plushness of the fish, I keep the sides simple: steamed basmati rice and asparagus spears drizzled with olive oil.

Herbs that work particularly well with this mustard-mayo mix include tarragon, thyme, oregano, chervil and parsley.

Consumers buying swordfish should ask where the fish was caught and how it was caught in order to make the most ecologically sensitive choice.

This coating also works well on lamb chops and chicken thighs.

Consider a California chardonnay to accentuate the richness of the fish. Iced tea and or mineral water spiked with lemon are good nonalcoholic alternatives.

BAKED MUSTARD-MAYO FISH STEAKS—Yield: 4 servings

2 tablespoons each: mayonnaise, mustard3-6 fresh tarragon leaves, minced1/2 teaspoon each: salt, black pepper4 (6- to 8-ounce) swordfish or salmon steaksLemon wedges

Procedure:1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.2. Mix together mayonnaise and mustard in small bowl; stir in tarragon, salt and pepper. Spread mixture on both sides of the steaks. Place fish on a baking sheet.3. Bake fish, turning once halfway through cooking, for 8 minutes. Put steaks under broiler to brown, 1 minute, if desired. Serve with lemon wedges.

Nutrition data per serving: 248 calories, 46 percent of calories from fat, 12 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 32 g protein, 556 mg sodium, 0 g fiber

Reach for the mustard and mayonnaise when broiling or baking this swordfish. These two basic condiments provide a subtle flavor boost while protecting delicate fish from toughening or drying out. Photo by MCCLATCHY