On Sundays this time of year, when long-simmered dishes fill the kitchen with homey aromas, few entrees are as welcome as osso buco, Italian braised veal shanks.

Osso buco literally means “bone with a hole,” and refers to cross-cut pieces of meaty veal shank. The meat is braised until it shreds at the touch of fork. The melting marrow can be spread over bread, and the sauce becomes complex and velvety with hints of citrus, herbs and wine. It’s a perfect dish for company.

You should prepare it ahead, because its flavor improves after a day in the refrigerator. Ask you butcher to cut the shanks into 3-inch lengths, and stand them on end in the pan. Cook them in a single layer, using a second pan if necessary.

Osso buco is traditionally served with polenta or risotto.

A fruity Col d’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino 2007 from Tuscany ($19.99) with spicy oak and firm tannins is an ideal match.

To peel and crush the garlic, place cloves in a zipper-style plastic bag, close it and pound with a flat meat mallet.OSSO BUCO—Yield: 6 servings

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter1/2 cup all purpose flour6 meaty veal shanks, cut into 3-inch lengthsKosher salt and freshly ground pepper1 large onion, cut into 1-inch pieces1 rib celery, cut into 1-inch pieces2 carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces1 head garlic, cloves peeled and crushed1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, plus more for garnish1 bay leaf4 cups homemade or low-sodium canned chicken broth1 (14-ounce) can whole plum tomatoes, crushedZest strips from 1 lemon, divided1 teaspoon sugar

Procedure:1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.2. Heat oil and butter in large Dutch oven over medium-low until hot. Place flour in shallow dish. Season veal shanks with salt and pepper; dredge in flour, shaking off excess.3. Working in batches, brown shanks in Dutch oven until meat is nicely colored. Remove shanks and set aside. Add diced vegetables to pan and cook, stirring, until softened and lightly browned, 8-10 minutes. Add garlic and sauté 5 minutes. Add thyme, parsley, bay leaf, broth, tomatoes, half the lemon peel and sugar. Cook, stirring, 3 minutes, and return veal shanks to pan.4. Bring mixture to simmering, cover pan and transfer to oven. Braise until meat is very tender, 2-2 1/2 hours, checking occasionally to make sure liquid is still simmering.5. Removed pan from oven. Transfer shanks to platter and cover with foil. Simmer sauce over medium heat until thickened, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Return shanks to pan to reheat and coat with sauce. Garnish with parsley and remaining lemon strips.

Nutrition data per serving: 331 calories (33 percent from fat), 11.8 g fat (3.8 g saturated, 5 g monounsaturated), 136 mg cholesterol, 37.5 g protein, 17.2 g carbohydrates, 2.2 g fiber, 340 mg sodium.

Adapted from Jerome Cormoulis-Houles, executive chef at Wine Depot & Bistro 555, Miami Beach.

Osso buco with polenta fills the kitchen with homey aromas. Photo by MCCLATCHY