Since the time of early Egypt, saffron has been the spice of pharaohs, maharajas and kings. The price of saffron, at $100 an ounce, is often compared to gold.

The intensive hand labor is what makes saffron the most expensive spice in the world. The tiny red threads must be hand-picked from the center of the crocus sativus, a flower similar in appearance to the spring crocus. Using fine tweezers, a harvester pulls three red stigma threads from each flower, leaving behind the yellow stamens, which have no taste. To produce one ounce of saffron, harvesters must pick the stigmas from 6,000 crocuses. Once cured and dried, the long threads of top-grade saffron are bright red, a color that is retained even after storage.

But don’t worry, you won’t have to spend a fortune to enjoy the exotic taste of saffron and the brilliant yellow color it gives dishes because saffron infuses its flavor in very small amounts. A 50-cent pinch makes four servings of classic saffron rice.

The Arabs introduced saffron to Spain around the 8th century. Now the world’s finest saffron grows in la Mancha, one of Spain’s seven saffron-producing provinces. Look for premium Spanish saffron in glass tubes or clear plastic containers.

To release the flavor from the dried stigma, or threads, crush them a little before adding them to a recipe. If your recipe includes water, boil a little of it and pour it over the saffron, allowing it to steep 15 minutes to an hour. You can also buy powdered saffron. After a year or so saffron begins to lose it potency. So, if you’ve had some saffron in your spice rack for many years — which is the often the case with many of us — you should just toss it.

A chardonnay with a full bouquet of aromas, including lemon and peach and well-balanced acidity, such as a Blackstone Winemaker’s Select Chardonnay ($10), would be pleasing with this dish.

RICE WITH CHICKEN, SAFFRON AND ALMONDS—Yield: 6 servings

2 chicken breasts (about a pound), cut into 1/2-inch cubesSea saltFreshly ground pepper1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons canola oil, divided1/2 cup blanched almonds2 cups extra-long grain white rice, soaked in warm, lightly salted water for 20 minutes4 tablespoons butter1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, soaked in 1/3 cup of warm water4 cups chicken broth3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dillweed

Procedure:1. Season chicken cubes with salt and pepper to taste. In medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil and sauté chicken cubes on all sides until golden brown. Remove from pan and set aside.2. In small skillet, heat 1/3 cup oil, add blanched almonds and fry 3-5 minutes, stirring constantly, until light brown or pink. Remove nuts with slotted spoon and drain well on double layer of paper towel.3. Drain rice. In large skillet, heat butter and sauté rice a few minutes; stir in soaked saffron, its soaking water and chicken broth. Mix well, season with salt and pepper to taste.Add cooked chicken cubes and bring mixture to boil; reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer 20 minutes, until liquid is absorbed and holes appear on surface.4. Remove from heat, place double layer of paper towel over rice and cover pan. Let stand 10 minutes, then mix well.5. Arrange nuts on bottom of 12-inch round, shallow dish, then spoon rice over nuts, pressing down gently with back of wooden spoon. Turn upside down on round serving platter. 6. Sprinkle with fresh dill and serve as a main course.

Nutrition data per serving: 555 calories (43 percent from fat), 26.4 g fat, (6.7 g saturated fat, 13 g monounsaturated), 69 g cholesterol, 26.5 g protein, 52.3 g carbohydrates, 2.1 g fiber, 666 mg sodium.Adapted from “The Turkish Cookbook, Regional Recipes and Stories” by Nur Ilkin and Sheilah Kaufman

Rice with Chicken, Saffron and Almonds makes a pretty plate. Photo by MCCLATCHY