Relish: It’s more than just a topping for ballpark hot dogs. A spoonful or two can spark almost any meal. And don’t think all relishes are made from pickled cucumbers; relishes today are made from tomato, corn, eggplant, and many more seasonal vegetables and fruits.Nor does making a relish mean being chained to the kitchen stove all day fooling with canning jars and water baths. Most relishes simply can be refrigerated.Still, given all the relish jars stocked in the local supermarket, most folks facing the prospect of making their own relish will likely sigh, “Why bother?”“Anytime you take the time to make a relish or any pickled product from scratch, you will have a freshness and a liveliness you won’t get with a commercial product,” said Rick Field, chief executive officer and “chief pickler” of Rick’s Picks, a New York City-based maker and purveyor of pickled products.“Relish provides the bright flavor notes,” said Field, co-author of Williams-Sonoma’s  new “The Art of Preserving,” with Rebecca Courchesne and Lisa Atwood.“Relish is not like mayonnaise. Mayo binds things together. Relish is the soloist in the band.”For Monica Bhide, a cookbook author and writer from Dunn Loring, Va., relishes are integral to her signature cooking style.“There are so many ways to make your food have that one difference,” she said. “Some people go out of their way to buy organic. Some people grow and use their own herbs. You can get as complicated as you want. But for me, it is always the little things like relish, one of the most overlooked and underused items in the kitchen.”Relishes can sport a dazzling array of flavor, but not all recipes are complicated. Field’s first relish was made by chopping up pickled cucumbers in the food processor. Field believes ingredients should “speak for themselves” in a relish.Bhide prefers “intensely strong” relishes because they make “a simple entree shine.”“With a little imagination, a relish can brighten up a dish with such oomph,” she said. “They are my secret weapons when pulling a meal together.”

What is relish?“A cooked or pickled sauce usually made with vegetables or fruits and often used as a condiment; can be smooth or chunky, sweet or savory and hot or mild.”Webster’s New World Dictionary of Culinary Arts

Canning relishesFor detailed how-tos on canning, consult the book “The Art of Preserving,” or visit the website of The National Center for Home Food Preservation at the University of Georgia: uga.edu/nchfp.

BEET AND GINGER RELISH—Yield: 2 1/4 cups

8 ounces chopped onion (about   1 large)3 tablespoons each butter and    sugar1/2 teaspoon saltFreshly ground pepper, to taste1 pound raw beets, peeled and    grated1 (1/2-inch long) piece gingerroot,   grated1/2 cup red wine2 tablespoons sherry vinegarProcedure:1. Combine onion and butter in nonreactive saucepan; cook over medium-low heat until onions are very soft, about 10 minutes.2. Stir in sugar, salt and pepper. Add beets, gingerroot, red wine and vinegar; cook over low heat 30 minutes.3. Can be refrigerated about 2 months, or spoon relish into sterilized jars, seal and let cool.“Forgotten Skills of Cooking,” by Darina Allen

FIRE AND ICE RELISH—Yield: 3 cups

3 cups cherry tomatoes, finely    chopped, juices reserved1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded and finely chopped1 red onion, finely chopped1/4 cup each cider vinegar and    water4 teaspoons sugar1 1/2 teaspoons each celery seed   and mustard seed1/2 teaspoon each salt and freshly ground black pepper1/8 teaspoon ground red pepperProcedure:1. Put tomatoes and juices in medium bowl; stir in bell pepper and onion.2. Mix together vinegar, water, sugar, celery seed, mustard seed, salt and peppers in saucepan; bring to boil over high heat. Boil 1 minute. Remove from heat; pour over prepared vegetables. Cool. Cover; refrigerate at least 3 hours.3. Can be stored in refrigerator up to 10 days.“Learning to Cook with Marion Cunningham,” by Marion Cunningham

EGGPLANT AND TOMATO RELISH—Yield: 6 (8-ounce) jars

2 pounds globe eggplants, cut into 3/4-inch-thick slices1/4 cup salt4 tablespoons olive oil, divided1 yellow onion, halved and cut into 3/4-inch-thick slices2 cloves garlic, minced1 1/4 pounds tomatoes, peeled, cored and cut in 3/4-inch dice1/3 cup pitted kalamata olives3 tablespoons pine nuts, lightly toasted2 tablespoons capers1/2 cup red wine vinegar1/3 cup finely sliced fresh basil leavesFreshly ground pepper, to tasteProcedure:1. Arrange eggplant slices in single layer on paper towels. Sprinkle both sides with 1/4 cup salt; drain eggplant 1 hour. Rinse eggplant under cold running water; pat dry with paper towels. Cut into 3/4-inch dice.2. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in large nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Cook eggplant in batches, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Transfer to plate.3. Add remaining olive oil; reduce heat to medium-low. Add onion; cook, stirring often, until tender, about 15 minutes. Add garlic; cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, olives, pine nuts, capers and vinegar. Raise heat to high; bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; gently stir in eggplant and basil; simmer until heated through, about 5 minutes. Season with pepper; add more salt, if needed.4. Ladle hot relish into hot, sterilized jars, leaving 1/4-inch headspace. Remove any air bubbles. Wipe rims clean; seal tightly with sterilized lids. Process jars in boiling-water bath, 20 minutes. Cool jars; test seals. Store. If seal fails, refrigerate jar up to 2 weeks. This relish can be jarred as-is and stored in refrigerator up to 2 weeks.

William-Sonoma’s “The Art of Preserving,” by Rick Field and Rebecca Courchesne, with Lisa Atwood

PICKLED ZUCCHINI RELISH—Yield: 3 cups

2 pounds zucchini1 large yellow or white onion, diced1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced2 tablespoons salt1 1/4 cups sugar1 cup each distilled white vinegar and water1 teaspoon each celery seed and freshly grated nutmeg1/2 teaspoon each ground turmeric and pepperProcedure:1. Cut zucchini lengthwise into thin strips using julienne peeler or mandoline. Cut strips crosswise into matchsticks. Transfer to large nonreactive bowl. Add onion, bell pepper and salt. Toss to combine. Cover; let stand at room temperature 6 hours or up to 1 day.2. Have ready hot, sterilized jars and their lids. Drain zucchini mixture in large colander. Rinse thoroughly; drain again. Transfer to large nonreactive saucepan. Add sugar, vinegar, water, celery seed, nutmeg, turmeric and pepper. Stir to combine. Bring to boil over high heat; reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 25-30 minutes.3. Ladle hot relish into jars, leaving 1/4 inch space at top. Remove any air bubbles. Wipe rims clean; seal tightly with lids. Process jars in boiling-water bath 10 minutes. Cool jars; test seals. Store. If seal fails during processing, refrigerate jar up to 1 month.William-Sonoma’s “The Art of Preserving,” by Rick Field and Rebecca Courchesne, with Lisa Atwood

Beet and Ginger Relish Photo by MCCLATCHY

Fire and Ice Relish Photo by MCCLATCHY

Eggplant and Tomato Relish Photo by MCCLATCHY