Think of tomatillos, with their flirty, papery husks and tart taste, as the sassy little cousins of beefsteak and roma tomatoes.They’re not as abundant as those red tomatoes dominating farmers markets and produce bins. But tomatillos (toe-mah-TEE-ohs) offer cooks a lot more than the base for a bowl of salsa, brightening a variety of dishes with a refreshing, lemony tang.Jack Staub, a Bucks County, Pa., vegetable gardener and author, uses them in an Indian-inspired mix with okra. Monica Bhide, a cooking teacher and author based in Washington, D.C., uses them to make a chutney — which she often spoons over savory miniature cheesecakes. Dona Tomas chef Thomas Schnetz batters and fries them much like fried green tomatoes, serving them with a tomatillo-and-guajillo chile sauce at his Oakland, Calif., restaurant. And at Norman’s, Norman Van Aken’s Orlando, Fla., restaurant, grilled pork is paired with a tomatillo-based mojo verde sauce.That most people know tomatillos only for their role in Mexican salsas is understandable. The fruit, which also is related to the cape gooseberry, has been grown in Mexico and Guatemala. It has been used by Aztec and Mayan cooks for thousands of years. You’ll now find them in India, Africa, New Zealand and Australia.Cooks should choose the smooth, green fruits (when they start turning yellow they’ll lose some of their characteristic tang), free of bruises, blemishes and dried, shriveled husks, Bhide said. “If the husks are unusually tight and the fruit firm, they are going to be very, very tart.”Staub began growing tomatillos 15 years ago, after spotting them in a seed catalog. “They sounded intriguing, and of course I love green sauce and salsa. I loved the look of the papery husk.” He now favors a purple variety for its color.Because his garden delivers a bounty of tomatillos, he often pairs them “with onions and chiles, then some kind of spice. It can be a Mexican idea, with cilantro and cumin,” Staub said, or with a little ginger, a little turmeric and okra, and “it kind of slants it in the Indian fashion.”Bhide, who launches the Indian edition of her book, “Modern Spice: Inspired Indian Flavors for the Contemporary Kitchen” in May, has found tomatillos used in the northern part of India.“It’s where I got my inspiration for making a chutney because they’re so tart,” she said.“Sometimes I will chop tomatillos up and sauté them with grated coconut and a little bit of spice, and it’s just great,” she said.A basic Mexican-accented green salsa of tomatillos, white onion, chiles and cilantro may be used as a dip or seasoning for tacos, eggs, fish, etc. Simmer that sauce a bit, then incorporate it in recipes for enchiladas and chilaquiles. A tomatillo’s tartness makes it a natural with rich meats (pork is popular) or chicken, especially in stews and soups.

COOKING WITH TOMATILLOSRemove papery husks, then, rinse lightly in cool water.Use raw: Coarsely chop and use in salsas, guacamole, salads, or slice thinly for sandwiches.Use cooked: Cook in boiling water until tomatillos begin to go translucent, about 5 minutes. Or roast tomatillos on a griddle until they soften and toast, darkly in some spots. Use in salsas or recipes as directed.

RICE WITH POBLANOS AND TOMATILLOS—Yield 6 servings

6 ounces tomatillos, husked and washed1 poblano chile, toasted, peeled, stemmed and seeded1/4 bunch cilantro, stems removed1 teaspoon salt3 tablespoons canola oil1 small white onion, diced1 1/2 cups medium- or long-grain rice

Procedure:1. Put tomatillos, chile, cilantro and salt in blender; puree until smooth. Add enough cold water to bring to 3 cups liquid; blend.2. Heat saucepan over high heat; add oil. Add onion; reduce heat to medium. Cook, stirring, until translucent, 5 minutes. Add rice; cook, stirring, until lightly toasted, 5 minutes. Add tomatillo mixture. Increase heat to high and bring to boil; reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender, 20-25 minutes. Fluff with fork and season to taste before serving.

Nutrition data per serving: 274 calories, 26 percent of calories from fat, 8 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 46 g carbohydrates, 4 g protein, 393 mg sodium, 2 g fiber

Source: Adapted from a recipe in “Dona Tomas,” a cookbook by Thomas Schnetz and Dona Savitsky

TART ADDITION, INDIAN STYLETomatillos may have been born and raised in Latin America, but they are global travelers these days. Pennsylvania author-gardener Jack Staub, for example, grows the fruit. He knows tomatillos’ tart character can kick up the flavor profile of a variety of dishes.Sometimes called a green tomato — or tomate verde in Spanish — tomatillos are more tart than unripened red tomatoes. They complement the ginger and turmeric in Staub’s tomatillo and okra dish.

INDIAN-STYLE OKRA AND TOMATILLOS—Yield: 6 servings

2 tablespoons vegetable oil1/2 cup coarsely chopped onion2 teaspoons ground turmeric1 pound tomatillos, husked, washed and quartered3/4 pound okra, sliced 1/2-inch thick2 large plum tomatoes, chopped1 jalapeño, seeded, minced1 tablespoon grated fresh gingerroot1/4 cup water1/2 teaspoon salt1/4 cup chopped cilantro

Procedure:1. Heat oil in skillet over medium heat; add onion and turmeric. Cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Add tomatillos and okra; cook over medium-high heat, stirring until browned and vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, jalapeño, gingerroot and water; season with salt.2. Simmer over low heat until okra is tender and most of liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Add cilantro just before serving.

Nutrition data per serving: 92 calories, 49 percent of calories from fat, 5 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 11 g carbohydrates, 2 g protein, 201 mg sodium, 4 g fiber

Adapted from a recipe by Pennsylvania author and vegetable farmer Jack Staub

TOMATILLOS VS. TOMATOESDo tomatillos and tomatoes deliver the same nutritional power? Here’s a quick look at a few nutrients based on USDA numbers (both are for 1/2 cup, chopped).Tomatillos vs. TomatoesCalories21 vs. 16Calcium5 mg vs. 9 mgIron0.41 mg vs. 0.25 mgPotassium177 mg vs. 214 mgSodium1 mg vs. 5 mgVitamin C7.7 mg vs. 11.45 mgNiacin1.22 mg vs. 0.53 mgVitamin A75 IU vs. 750 IULycopene0 mcg vs. 2,316 mcgLutein & zeaxanthin308 mcg vs. 111 mcgSource: USDA National Nutrient Database

Photo by MCCLATCHY